just had a really cleansing sesh after not surfing for a week, and i really needed it.
i just wanted to express my complete love for the ocean and it’s waves. I’m fortunate to have great friends and family, and to live near great waves, and regardless of all of the wonderful things there are to do and experience in this world, there is nothing more satisfying then surfing. It completely takes the cake. Nothing, for me, even comes close and i feel really content with the world and my unwealthy life knowing i’m going to be doing it almost every day until i kick the bucket. When im in the water there is never anywhere else in the world I would rather be. right there, right then, and thats it.
…your signature , from the 1965-67 movie , “children of the sun” , says it ALL, mate !
" We go for fun. Every ride is a gift to be treasured, and remembered. you know, theres freedom out there, more freedom then you’ve ever felt before. You feel it as soon as you get out of the car. you see it and you hear it. Its surfing time and you can’t wait."
cheers for sharing that …
it’s a great reminder of how blessed we are to have waves on this planet , and health to be able to enjoy them . Never take that [or anything , for that matter] for granted !