Thoughts on board #002

Hi,

I’ll soon have my fish finished (pictures soon) and now my thoughts turn to board numero duo. Ive found the process, thanks to all here at Swaylocks, to be tonnes of fun, at times frustrating to the point of tears punctuated by moments of pure bliss - so thanks one and all.

Now i want to build something that can surf chest to over head high waves but I dont want a potato chip thruster as imn 5 ‘11, 200 pounds (of pure muscle :)) and i dont like thin boards (im an average ability to sometimes good surfer). I was thinking something in the realm of a 9’ performance mal as i also ride a trad 10’ for fat and small waves. But the idea of an 8 - 8’6 thruster/semi gun ( 2 and 1 set up) around 3’ thick and 20-21 wide with semi pin and pulled in nose and plenty of rocker turns me on too. It also sounds like a board that I could take ti Indo with me too. I like to surf hollow waves more than fatties and the fish and single fin are more for summer and med winter swell days.

does anyone have any thoughts and suggestions

thanks again

Ado

A word of warning, if your anything like me…

Finish your first one before you start the second one!

It took me until my 5th board until I actually completely finished a board, there were always little bits that could have been sanded better, air bubbles in the fin installs to fill, etc etc.

But then again it may not be worth finishing your first one perfectly, my first came out fine, but wasn’t worthy of a showroom shine.

Just thought i’d give you a reality check before you embark on a run of unfinished boards, like me! :slight_smile:

Your second board -

Decide what will round out your quiver best.

May as well have something that rides waves your other boards can’t.

As for indo, how big are your balls?

Theres all types of waves there, not all are crazy shallow, heaving monsters.

A 8’+ gun would surf much much knarlier stuff than I can, so i’ll probably never own one.

I’m 6’1" and 185 pounds, and i’m going shorter and shorter at the moment.

I ride a 6’3 x 19 x 2 1/2 in PU/PE, thinner in compsand.

The only reason i’d go longer (other than longboards or funboards of course) would be for paddle power to get into bigger waves.

My indo quiver stops at 6’8. Anything bigger, and i’m suddenly out in triple OH waves and very scared… ha ha.

Although, the board you suggest may be more of a cruiser than a big wave machine?

Personally, i’d find the middle ground between the fish and the longboard.

Kit

Hi KK!

Thanks for your advice which makes a lot of sense. Im no big wave charger and happy to cruise really but because of my big frame I do like a bit of juice in the wave to get me going. But im pretty uncomfortable in anything too much over head high (but I am pretty fit just my balls aren’t as big as some) so I think you are right bout me not needing a gun. Maybe a fish style bigger board say around 6’6 or 7’0 with fin plugs so it can be a thruster too – or maybe an egg – though they look too much like a mini-mal for my liking.

Ado

My suggestion for what it’s worth,

If you’re after a board for chest to head high:

  • Finish your first board

  • Take it out in everything for the first month… hopefully you’ll get a few chest to head high days.

  • This will help you understand where your shape works and where it doesn’t

If it works good in Chest to head high, then you already have the board :slight_smile:

Otherwise, start having a think about it… and yes, your thought to have a removable fin system may give some flexibility to experiment.

-Cam

Thanks Fishexp –

Sound advice. Im just so hooked on making boards that im keen to do another even though im yet to finish foiling the fins, glassing them, sanding them, and then glassing on the board which also needs a final hot coat and maybe gloss.

Problem is that there will be bugger all waves this way until about April when the first spring swells arrive. So I might occupy my time and make a performance longboard or big fish to compliment the log and single fin. And just for the sheer fun of it all

cheers

Ado

The last 2 posts were very good advice. Try the board in different conditions. If the fins can be moved, try doing that. Then you’ll have a much better idea of what to do for the next board. A good fish should be able to handle anything from waist high to double overhead.

I made 4 - 8’ eggs, each was a little different from the one before. I ride all 4 boards for different reasons. One paddles better, one handles bigger days better, one fits in between the other 2, and one is just for small days that need a board that can glide across the flat sections well. I use them as single fins most of the time, but I can also add 2 sidebites for bigger days.

I could probably ride my 6’ fish in everything, but where I surf there are so many people on longboards that it can be frustrating on a really short board. The eggs are my equalizer, and I also have a 10’2" for tandem riding with my daughter or to give the wave hogs a little grief.

Sounds like the plan then!