Bill and Kokua talking story… one of my favorite things about Swaylocks.
Warren
This is a funny thread. I started drinking Coors way too young. And anything else I could get my hands on. And, like most everybody, lost friends to drugs and alcohol. My buddies who visited the Islands always raved about how good Primo was. And having a Primo Aloha shirt was much coveted. I still drink Coors in the summer. I like it because I can drink a few while working in the yard and not get drunk. It’s raining as I write this. A Guiness Extra Stout sound good this time of year. Mike
Lankameese, Actually I am b/t Tally and Lake City out in God's country. Lived in S Ponte Vedre in '64 in one of 7 houses b/t Ponte Vedre proper and Villano at the time. Got caught in an under tow (Hurricane Dora) the third day we lived there and wound up on the beach not breathing with no pulse. Dad and another teacher (last name Jansen) from Fletcher HS gave me rudimentery CPR, broke land speed record for '61 beetle to get me to Flagler Hospital for 3 day stay. Give a shout if you want to see what's available in uncrowded Gulf surf.
Cheers and sorry for boosting the topic
Howzit Bill, Yes we were in heaven but it was more than just beer heaven, it was just heaven or as close to what heaven might be like. We were making great money, surfing great waves that were that not that crowded, Living on the Norh Shore of Oahu, eating good healthy food and basically doing what ever we wanted. the only bummer was WORK. We were waiting tables at Chuck's Black Angus restaurant on Kuhio 6 nights a week and making so much money it was a crime. I could make my rent in 1 night's shift. Life was the best and I felt so lucky. oce again WORK was there and we had to make the drive to town and then back after work. One thing was when they opened the Chuck's at Pearl Ridge and we could get out of Waikiki and stop there for a few RR's before going the rest of the way home. Then I moved to Kauai and really found my placein this world, but that's another story for another time. Where's that genie with the 3 wishes when he could be of use. Aloha,Kokua
Sounds like you were in ''Beer Heaven'' for a while!
Afoaf,
It sounds like you are having good experience with that fin setup. The difference is most strongly noticed when an existing board, that the rider is familiar with, is converted to the twin setup. It was a real eye opener, for me, when I first did it.
the single fin is dead to me.
Wow! “Dis one funny beuh tred…” Ha!
In Oregon, going to Washington to get Coors was the big deal. The word here was Oregon wouldn’t let unpasteurized beer be sold. I can’t say I thought it was worth the trouble.
I go to try “Dr. Primo’s six pack stack” back when I lived in Waikiki - No big deal…
I came up as a kook trying to be “hard core” - “Black Jack,” Guinness extra stout, Lowe dark… A while before the “micro brew” revolution…
As for the board… I love it. The ride discription sounds like what I felt the first time riding quads with the edge fin/critical fore aft placement.
Bumping up for Thirdshade to see the PRIMO label. Also, to check with Lankamese, to see if he has had any more adventures with the OBQ.
bumping this thread for some stoked ramblings I sent Bill by email this weekend…
from Saturday’s session:
Bill,
Had a really great session today on the OBQ in real small surf... the board just connected so well in these knee to thigh high peelers I was amazed at how much fun i had...made the day for me today. One of those sessions where the board and you suddenly click and it seems you find a sweet spot and the board was just finding what little energy there was and providing these really connected long rides.. almost behaved like a section connector that would be 10 ft+ long...anyway, I was really pleased and impressed, I felt like I connected today with the board in small surf...surfed for almost 3 hrs and caught a ton of waves. I was out alone at first and after watching me connect these little waves I noticed all of a sudden there 10 people in the water
board just gliding across these little faces today...point and shoot fashion and the rail and tail just sending the board sliding
lots of fun.
later ramblings on the same day from me about the same session… I find it funny in a way looking back on it…I was amped:
I remember you telling me about doing all things on the OBQ from one position on the board, that i might eventually find the ability to do this and yesterday I felt like I found that “one location” on the board, at least i found it for (and in) yesterday’s conditions; I did do some walking on the board towards the nose in an effort to make some sections towards the end of the wave, but for the most part I was able to find my line, feel the board connect with the energy, and just stand up and guide the board effortlessly; I am also still impressed by how this board lets you literally just stay right in the pocket and its almost too easy, almost “soft-like” is how I might express it... you are right in the energy source but in total control and you feel like the board is controlling the wave almost... this convex bottom really has me scratching my head, (I think) this is the main ingredient I was feeling yesterday..and yes volume and planing surface area are at work too, but you get what I am saying...I was doing these little fade left go right take offs and the board was just able to sit so softly right in the most critical part of the wave and i would rise up weighting the board, crank the left fade to a right and as the board comes around right it just locked into the little walls and just went like a sling shot and grabbed the wave and went shooting down the line and I was just kind of (for the most part) standing there and I was just smiling and getting these long trim lines
using the term “critical,” and some of the other adjectives I have used to describe yesterday I know sound a bit funny when talking about knee to waist high (max) surf...but every wave no matter what size has its most critical part I guess...and the board just got up and went.. got in trim and off I went down the line.
I was out w a good friend of mine that was riding my quad 7’0, and he says to me in the lineup..."your board (the OBQ) is perfect for today”
this was after he saw me catch like 10 waves and just trimming along at speed
My going surfing was really only at the prompting of my buddy who happens to be in town studying for a real estate license exam he’ll be taking on Tues after the holiday weekend locally, and he wanted to go surf to clear his head from all the studying he’s been doing, get some exercise, get outside in the sun etc so I tell him yeah I’ll throw the boards in the car and meet you down at the pier... and for the most part my head was in the same place, been working my butt off lately and felt like I just need to paddle around I don’t care that the waves are mush I just need to free my mind of it all... and what do you know but it all just came together, and sitting back at my car after the session I am just stoked, smiling, laughing to myself, going “well that sure turned out well”... like a mental high five to myself or something.
The OBQ really turned a non-session, as far as my impression of the waves when I got to the beach, into a real eye opener for me....like its a whole new board for me really...I now feel like ok, board works effortlessly in anything chest high+ to as big as I would want to ever paddle into, and now I just found there’s a section connector inside my 8’0 OBQ for tiny waves.
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From Monday's session:
Had another great session today... caught so many waves my shoulders are killing me, waves were a little bigger and the board just glides, really caught some great rides today. The board picks up the wave earlier than a longboard does and just shoots off down the line, the board i guess could be compared to a longboard in certain ways, but really it is unlike anything I have ridden or felt, very different from a longboard glide...all the volume in an 8 ft package, I started thinking about the volume and thickness today, how they are both working to help the board do what it does... I apparently have found the “easy button” in smaller surf..never ending section connector, had some really long rides today all the way from outside and cutting out a few feet from shore, paddling out to do it all over again and again
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I find it strange in what we do at times, sometimes there are "epiphany moments" with your boards and I had one this weekend and just wanted to share it. I thought of editing down some of the above, but sometimes you gotta let it all hang out in the wind...
hope everybody had a great weekend, mine was dripping with stoke
Aloha,
Warren
scored some fun waves today at jax pier…and I happen to get a pretty good sequence on the local surf report…I like image 1 and image 4 the best
hope I did this correctly and it is viewable in this link…if not, well, I apologize in advance
http://img717.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=img3160530x353.jpg
Looks fun
Great thread with some vivid ride description. Can’t seem to see photos on the provided links despite signing up for them.
Any chance you can post them here ?
Cheers
Mpcutback