Howzit mason, if this is your first tint job you should go with a lighter color like yellow. Red tints have a tendency to turn orangish after a while, especially if it’s a light red tint. Aloha,Kokua
Hey Kokua, what I’m getting from Rider and Mason is they don’t care about fading, etc. They just want the boards the colors they have chosen, and want help getting the best possible results.
Mason, on the red tint, it’s weak so use kind of a lot, or even add a small amout of the red opaque, maybe 5-10% of the amout of color you add to the resin. It will help it give a deeper red, instead of the washed out crappy look you tend to get. Also, sometimes adding a little yellow tint brightens up the color, so it’s not quite…um…well it tends to look desaturated to me with just red tint by itself, or maybe grey-purplish? Well, it looks funny to me used straight up.
Wish all the colors were like the blue. Looks good whether you use a little or a lot, and very strong pigment, too. Don’t need too much. I also like the magenta tint. Looks good regardless of whether you add a little or a lot, and while not as easy as yellow, is fairly forgiving.
As far as doing a yellow tint, my opinion is that it’s almost too easy to learn anything about getting the color even. You could do dozens of yellows and on your first blue or green or purple, just murder it. You’ll still learn the tape ‘n’ cut tho.
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Howzit reverb, Spackle doesn’t work well with paint either. The trick is to spray white paint over the spackle before painting. I think if you wanted to do a tint over spackle, what may work is to spray the whole board with white paint before using tint. I can’t say for sure if it will work since I’ve never tried it but it could be the answer. Hopefully some one who has tried this will add a post about it.Aloha,Kokua
Exactly,remember, crew, that TINTS get about half their color from absorbtion of the tint into the foam. They’re transparent, see? Which is why spending a little extra time working a tinted side will help even it up quite a bit. Anything that changes the amount of color absorbed into the foam will show like crazy. Like those pour lines in the blank we all love so much. Even little softer areas of the blank will be lots darker with most colors, so a patch of spackle or other filler, well you get it. Opaques are the way to go on banged up blanks since all you see there is the surface.
Magenta…seems like a good bet. Thanks for the help BammBamm. I had no idea these pigments can fade. I have been asked to do a full top and bottom tint, which I know is gonna make for an almighty bag of bollocks if I pick a bastard colour to start.
Thanks for all the advice!
TM
ahhh… the age old semantics …“tint” [transparent, in australia, anyway ] or … “pigment” [opaque] ?
A neighbour of mine did this purple PIGMENT [opaque] kneeboard for his first [!!] glassed board a couple of years ago …
It doesn’t seem to have faded at all , comparing it to the photo I took at the time …
ben
Trying to see thru the wax, in a 6" x 8" photo, is not the closest inspection method around…
Flip the board over, look at the tail and nose laps, where the extra glass from rails and fin reinforcements overlap, and you’ll see the sand marks and areas of white, and also the uneven colors of the flat panels.
I’m not saying it can’t be done. What I’m saying is…it looks like crap, any way you do it, to someone who’s into good looking, professionally well made surfboards.
If plain purple is all you want, it looks GREAT!
I’ve also tried the backfill or second-coat method, combined with the same color hot coat. It looks good, but if you really get close and examine it you’ll see some blotches. I’ve also done cheater coats directly on the blank which worked well. Never had any fading problems. I love dark colors, and have access to a few pro’s who do perfect greys, dark blues, etc. There isn’t any tricks, just the squeegee experience of 30+ years doing 4-5 boards each day. Most of us don’t glass at that level, so we need to rely on the tricks. The best one for light color tints is to paint the hotcoat with a transparent acrylic. Set up your glassing schedule so you can put a layer of 4 oz. clear over it. It looks like a perfect tint on a perfect blank. In my opinion, there isn’t any difference in a dark opaque or tint from 3 ft. away. A well done clear polished glosscoat over a dark opaque gives that deep look like a tint without the hassle. On color fading, if you leave a dark board in the sun long enough you’re going to risk more delam problems than fading. The only time my dark boards see the sun is when they’re in the water.