I know, I should have cut it while it was still gelled, problem is, the UV went off quicker than I expected. What should I do now? I was thinking of taping off the original line and try sanding down to the first layer. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Bummer,
Yea, sand it down to the break on the rail if you can…but don’t hit the cloth too much under it. sand it to where it would have hung if you were doing a zip cut. Once you do that, then you can do a 4 oz deck to bottom cut lap just to get the look, and add some strength. Yep you’ll add some weight, but you’ll have a nice cut lap. when you do the hotcoat, add some tint in that mix too you going to have to go darker to hide the spots where you ran the resin out onto the deck.
If that doesn’t work, reverse the look. Spray the bottom and top rails with blue acrylic paint before glossing, keep the deck tint as is. It will still look great, just not a tint/tint job. Now it will be an opaque/ tint job…no worries.
Observation: To do a cut lap you have to cover the area you don’t want the resin to attach too. Hey next time make sure you mark off the cut lap with a light pencil mark, or masking tape. If you use a pencil mark you still have to cover the area you don’t want colored. Even if you could have gotten to the rail cutting tool, you would have still had resin all over the bottom deck that would have left dark color blotches. You could have taken a dremel cutter to the lap if you had the bottom protected.
sorry, cool blue though,
-Jay
You could also do an opaque hotcoat on the screwups side. You would probaly need to do two of them to get the color even though, one then sand then do another one to cover the bumps you sand out and do a light sanding.
Thats why I like splashes and swirls. If you get uneaven colors, that the way it’s supposed to be…
regards,
Håvard
Thanks Jay,
I think I’ll go with the acrylic spray on the rails. It’s too bad because I came up with exactly the color blue that I was looking for in the tint. Oh well, there will plenty of boards to test it on in the future.
Marc
Howzit SrPato, Looks like you pulled the original tape off out of the bad area. You should have left it in so you could still cut the tape along it or sand the glass over the tape til it was thin enough to cut on the tape line. You can try to retape and sand but there will still be some discoloration from the tint left in between the weave, but if that’s the only bad spot then you could hide it with some kind of lam. Are you going to put a clear layer of glass over the area, if so that’s when you can hide with a laminate. if no more glass to be layed then do the laminate and cover with a piece of 4oz then Hot coat. Next time you use UV don’t flip the board since the underside will still catch some UV rays and will kick but a lot slower then if it got flipped and exposed to direct sun.Another thing is you could sand it down and do a fabric inlay over the nose to hide it. Fixing tint mistakes is not easy but not impossible. You could also do a blue pigment design also to hide it. At least it’s on the bottom and you won’t have to look at it when surfing. Aloha,Kokua
I just did a tinted lam yesterday. Here is a photo showing the masking off with tape and plastic film and another showing the lap just after it’s been cut. This was done with classic (catalysed) resin. I’m not sure if UV resin is such a good choice for doing cutlaps. I’ve heard it goes off so fast that the resin will be too hard to cut properly. Anyone has done it, already? Any advice?
Havard,
Good suggestion also. The only problem is this is a 9’6" for my wife and I’m trying to keep it as light as possible. It wouldn’t be an issue for me since I prefer a heavier board though.
thanks,
Marc
kokua,
I hadn’t thought of the inlay solutions either. She might like that as well.
Thanks Everyone for your replys. I’m getting some really good solutions here. I love this place!
Marc
Quote:
I’ve heard it goes off so fast that the resin will be too hard to cut properly. Anyone has done it, already? Any advice?
I use UV for everything, but when doing dark colors or opaques I always put some cat in. Like about 10 cc’s in 20 oz.
what happens is I let the catalyst kick pretty good, cut the lap, then walk it outside for the UV rock hard finish. Now it’s ready to flip, surform, and push the rail into the foam, nothing tacky. It just speeds the process by a few hrs.
-jay
Howzit balsa, The trick is not to flip the board so the underside doesn’t kick as quick but will still get hard enough to cut with good results.Aloha,Kokua
Thanks Kokua and Resinhead for the tricks. I’ll keep that in mind if I ever turn to UV resin. But it took me years to achieve a half decent glass job with regular resin. I’m afraid I’m too lazy to change now…
Howzit balsa, As one who used catalyst for eons I can say that if you go with UV you can still be lazy since you can take more time to laminate. But from what I see the board you did looks great and nice tape off for the tint. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks again, Kokua. Better not look at it really near, though… Isn’t it what pinlines were invented for, anyway?
Geeez, I’m gonna need two or three more lives before I can do those Moonlight Glassing jobs…
What exactly do you mean by pushing the rail into the foam, Jay? I’m guessing you are pushing the rail lap in, instead of painting the lap and then sanding before laminating the other side. Correct or incorrect?
Chris
i don’t think at this point, that you can recoat with tint and have any hopes of it not looking like there were problems. there would be a lot of discoloration, dark spots, light spots, etc.
would suggest that you use a layer of 4 oz with pigment and cover with that. it looks like it was the deck overlapping onto the bottom that went off too quick, so a deckpatch wouldn’t be a bad idea anyway. might also have to pigment the sanding coat for coverage.
you might could get away with just doing a rail band in pigment, both on the deck and on the bottom. extra work, but it would be very distinctive and individual.
might also want to use mekp this time.
suggest you be careful with the cutting tool. have seen instances where too much pressure was used and the cut went thru all layers of glass to foam. have seen cracking and leakage along the cut lines from this. suggest you use a single edge blade and lift the tape and cut along that with the blade held flat to the board. do this while gelled, but not hard. kinda sticky, but if you get any lifts you can push em back down with the blade and all will be well when it final hardens.
Yep, I’m talking about the lap cut line. Instead of basting a clear lam coat to build up the ridge, you just push the cut lap into the foam. That way you get a smooth bubble free transition on your deck lamination, and maybe no need for those pesky little pinlines.
-Jay
Howzit resinhead, A wall paper seam roller works great for pushing the lap down into the foam. They're plastic and about1 1/2" wide. It is kind of a cheater quick fix but it does work and yes it may not need a pin line to cover. I've done it quite a few times when using 6oz cloth.Aloha,Kokua
Perfect! A seam roller, I guess I can give my fingernail a rest…I’m off to the Home Depot post haste.
…i don t know…i had a linear foam gauge with this method…
Damn! Well, now I know how to get those freakin things outta there!
Thanks Resinhead