when doing a tinted hotcoat…will any brush stroke or uneveness show like in a tinted lam? does it cure nice and solid looking?

I would think if done properly it would flow out nice and even like any hotcoat. Probably just want to make sure your tinted resin is mixed thoroughly and you brush it out evenly. I think if you did a nice opaque it would look rad- solid color, hide the stringer. My questions is, what about sanding? Won’t it be easy to sand through in places giving you a patchy color/clear look?

I’ve done one opaque hotcoat. it laid down and cured out nice/solid but when sanding it did come out patchy. I put on another colored hotcoat on top of that, sanded and glossed. it turned out very nice, but probably not something I’d do again. I’ve also put opaqued lam resin right on to the foam then glassed. that turned out really well too. (see rec. #386 in the 9’-9’11" photos) that I will do again, you don’t see the weave of the glass like when you do a colored lam.

JR, I got a stupid question. Ok, so you said you used an opaque resin for laminating directly on the board. Was the opaque color the “Blue tint”? And if so, how did you keep the middle of the board white? How is it that you created the rail color blue with out covering the middles section blue. And I take it you then glassed a clear coat? Im just about ready to start my own glassing job and would like to create a similar color design using a yellow color. After reading so many articles…im getting confused. Thanx, Kevin

how did you get the ripple effect or did that just happen? thanks

Kevin, no it wasn’t tint it was pigment. I taped off the deck as I was doing cut lap and squeegeed the colored lam resin onto the foam on the bottom, over the rails to the tape. let it kick and pull the tape. then glass as normal free or cut lap. you can do the same by lamming the glass with the colored (tint or opaque) resin and doing a cut lap, which I just did on my daughters board (pink).

not sure what you mean about the ripple effect but I think you’re seeing either the nose channels or the reflection of the rafters in the pavillion where I took the photos (that gloss polished out oh so NICE!)

If your going to tint or opaque the hot coat you have to use the same color. If you use different colors or try to do a color over a clear then the sand job will show splotches of different color. We used to do tint bottoms with opaque decks over the tint on the rails. Really tricky to sand. The hot coater had to be flawless in both the hot coat and the prep. Some manufacturers used to do opaque laminations, hot coats and glosses. They were trying to make sure nothing could be seen through the glass job so their secret contraband would be safe to bring across borders. What JR’s talking about is a foam tint or a foam stain on the rails. That technique goes by both names. Generally use opaques for foam stains.

when you say the color must be the same…do you mean the same mix for top and bottom? or the same color as the cloth lam? would i be safe doing a slightly tinted orange over a clear lam?

Ok…I think I got it now. How wide would you recommend the tape off. 2-3 inches. Or would you make a point to lay down paper accross the entire mid to cover what is ment to stay white. If I don;t peal the tape off soon enough will the tape get stuck under the lam. Or will I just have a shitty line. At what time do you seem to be pulling the tape off…half way to cure time? Any basic tips you recommend? Thanks for the responces. I think every surfer should realize how tricky these boards can be to make. I have learn a bunch in the last year. Thanks Kevin

What I mean by the same color is that the same color hot coat as the lamination. NEVER put a colored hot coat over a clear laminate. That’s a mess! If your laminate is uneven a hot coat of the same color may save it. Or at least make it bearable.

I guess the old glassers who used to do tints and pigments all the time must have all died, or maybe just forgotten how to do it due to their chemical intake. Whether you are doing a coloured bottom or deck, do the coloured lam first. Mask off comletely where you don’t want colour to go, unless you are an extremely proficient glasser, or you really like a challenge! In my experience once the resin has gelled, not hardened, you can trim along the tape edge with a new, and I stress new and sharp, blade. I realise in pigment jobs the tape is hard to see, but if you have the right light you can easily see the tape/foam border. Lifting the tape a little will also highlight the trim line as you are cutting. And you can cut into the foam a little, the board will not fall apart. Get rid of any little high points on the trimmed lap, rasp, whatever, getting the primary laminate ready for the rest of the glassing. If you do the bottom colour, then the deck glassing will be as usual. However you can add some cabosil to the bottom hot coat to thicken it slightly, don’t overdo it, allowing the sander a little help to not sand into the coloured laminate. As you all know, even the smallest sand throught to colour looks shitty. If you do the deck there are two options. Deck inlay or deck overlap. Either way do the same as above, masking trimming etc. If it’s a deck inlay, once trimmed, run around the perimeter of the inlay to depress it into the foam slightly so there is no edge to protrude into the bottom laminate, which I believe should overlap that edge. Then the second deck laminate as usual, lapped down and under the rail. If you want the coloured deck overlap then do the same as above. Coloured deck lam first, trim etc, bottom lam next followed by the final deck lam. This is obviously for a three layer (1 bottom, 2 top) laminate. Use you discretion for more. Oh, and if you want a coloured deck and different colour bottom, do the same, just make sure you have your masking trimming act together. Then you can learn how to pinline, if you don’t already know. Hope this helps afew people.

if you do a foam stain (thanks Greg) you don’t have to worry about cutting any glass just pull the tape when it gels. this method will add a tiny bit of weight with the extra resin but that’s not a biggie to me. if you lam the glass with colored resin, it’s difficult to find the tape line to cut under colored glass but if you double the tape (one on another) at you cut line it should be easy to find. either way you must tape or paper off the deck. cheap-ass tip: go to the local newspaper printers and ask about left overs, they pull the roll before its finished and will sell or give away. its about 3’ wide newspaper paper. $5 I got enough to last me years!

Thanks JR as I didn’t think about foam staining, good point. Actually by sealing off the foam that way you can draw more resin out of the cloth during lamination, as there is virtually no resin soaking into the foam. So in effect you won’t add weight to the final product. There are other ways of applying this technique to all types of foam/fibreglass laminations but that’s another topic to be discussed another day.