Ok, so I almost always get air bubbles under my rice paper when I lam. Fed up cutting out pieces of my lam jobs and repairing, today I decided to epoxy the rice paper down while I glue in my box. Going to lam tomorrow. Heated resin and used additive F and still yet I have to fight to get it to wet out. By now I’m cutting slits in it and this time I have ink bleeding all over the f***ing place. Is there some other way I can get my logo onto my boards with minimum effort? Secrets of rice paper? Preprinted logos on different material? From where and what material? Need your help. Mahalo.
Are these home made laminates? What type of printer are you using? What colors are bleeding? What type of rice paper?
I use a HP ink jet printer and try to keep the graphics simple (mostly black) and have no problem.
I wet under the rice paper whether I am using PE resin or epoxy, then place the glass over.
See this thread: Beginner’s Ink-Jet Rice Paper Laminates
I think my problem is that I wasn’t wetting under the rice paper. Using HP ink jet, black only, regular surfboard logo rice paper. Thanks for clearing that up.
RICE PAPER!$#!&* I’ve also had problems with it. Mine was more of the paper showing through. I’ve bought many different types. The thinnest seemed to go the closest to tranparent. Then one day I thought I’d test something different.
I’m a chiropractor and use a fine tissue paper to cover the face portion of my chiropractic table for hygiene.
I pulled a 12" piece from the table, printed on it with my HP ink jet, cut it out and lammed on as suggested in the previous post.
Ta Da! It works better than any rice paper that I’ve tried AND it’s CHEAP! One roll should cost no more than $3 (usd). Just go to a chiropractor and ask for a couple of feet of his face paper and test it yourself! If you like it get a roll from him/her!
Have a quick look at this video…
I prelam my labels before mixing any other batches.Doing it this way, you can really get them flat and even w/o worrying about anything else.I use to do this with just epoxy,but now with poly too.
Punasurf, I pour out a small cup of resin separately before I lam the whole board. Then the fabric is layed down and smoothed out, and the top layer is carefully pulled back just past the point where the laminate will be. Then I catalyze the resin lightly (4 drops per liquid ounce) Then I pour out just enough resin to wet out the fabric and foam under the logo. Next the rice paper goes down and is squeegeed flat. As the resin soaks in, I pour a little more resin on top and squeegee that out over the rice paper. That’s when you can see all the bubbles and get them out with the squeegee.
Then the top layer of fiberglass gets pulled gently over the board again and smoothed in place. Ready to cayalyze the rest of the lam resin and do the whole board. Sort of two separate operations. Doug
hi Dr Les. Has this miraculous paper a technical name? Cannot find it on Google but have long been searching for an alternative to rice paper. I’ve an 8’ logo I want to cover the whole board with, have printer but no can find paper
I found quite a bit for sale by googling “chiropractic face paper”
Anyone else confirm the results? I’m guessing- avoid the crepe version?
So is that you and Ben?
I’ve seen a few in the series. Well done!
I think my problem is that I wasn’t wetting under the rice paper.
DING! DING! DING!..we have a winner!!!
lay your cloth
cut the cloth
roll the cloth up, exposing the area you want your logo to go
mix up your resin
put a glob of resin down where you want your logo to go, and put the logo on top…use your popsicle stick to make sure it’s straight, and pretty much saturated from the bottom
unroll the cloth over top of the logo
pour more resin on the cloth over the logo, and squegee that out around all sides of the logo, making sure there’s no excess resin floating around between the cloth and logo
then laminate as usual
Yeah I found several places in the US. Trouble is I’m in UK and needless to say we call it something different over here. “Couch roll” is the nearest I can get so have ordered some samples…
I use low grade or thin A4. And the above method it works a treat
Howzit punasurf, Try spraying a couple of coats of clear acrylic on your lam to keep it from bleeding. The only color I've had a problem with is yellow. Another thing is don't print the lam with to much ink, I print them as text even when it's a colored design but the text setting doesn't use a lot of ink so less tendency to bleed. You also want to use a printer that uses UV resistant colored ink or it will fade in a matter of weeks. Another thing is if you are printing only black then set your printer for black only aince if you don't the printer will use all the colors to make black which is a waste of ink. Hope this helps. Aloha,Kokua
How about the ass-gasket paper from public restrooms? I think it is the same as the stuff they use at the chiropractor’s office.
im having good sucess with a light weight acid free tissue paper
(used as wrapping in gift shops and stuff)
it the only one ive found that wets out clear
and ive tried heaps
it feeds into a old canon bubble jet by itself sweet as
one thing though with lightweight paper it does tend to wrinkle
but if you squgee really hard it seems to stay flat
other thing is put the ink side down onto the board
so print in reverse
Yes Drew, that’s Chip and me, Lavz appears in some of the others, search youtube for user Lavzy for the rest…
Great vids Grant, learnt a lot watching them, see where I have made mistakes before. Using epoxy just looks so simple when it comes to glassing…
I was hoping some one would mention lavatory seat covers/
that epiglodious center piece has always bothered me
as conspicous waste
to make use of
this fine paper
is really an upper.
and if you use the facilities a lot ,well…
at work, with a little time,
you could make some great lams.
the design formating
could make a great point of departure
The way to go for applying the riceys to your boards whether p/e or epoxy.Cut your glass,roll back all layers to where you want.Trim paper to about ( max ) 1/8th inch around print.Catalize resin, apply dab where you want to put logo.If putting over stringer, squeege resin into stringer so as not to suck to much resin away.Affix paper and using squeege lay flat.Easy as.Can move with fingers or squeege if it moves a little.Generally not many dramas.Do not scrape all resin from underneath.Pull all layers up and continue glassing.Have had no delams after a few thousand boards.Paper quality is extremely important for that professional finish.Generally dark colored boards will show some paper appearance.Not always radically noticeable though.Hope this is of some help.Regards Bubbles