the surf was smaller so I took out that 12’8’ board with the paddle anticipating the mega work out took off the beach kneeling out through the keyhole in the rip into the smooth outflow , truely an enlightened choice. further outside raised to an extended kneel and after 15-20 strokes committed to stand up paddling. The sets were smoothe and rare to non existant. surfed for 1 1/2 hours then traded boards with kent whom I lent an 11’er when he had to go and caught an additional six or seven waves then this is the It I wish to share mostly…I spoke to some friends in the water about the “off limits” quality of these waters in days of old when the waves were so precious they were restricted… so shortly there after I turned and caught ,not a big wave ,a wave that rolled me all the way to the river mouth at WAILUA .This is the site of the city of refuge Hauola .When I landed there were two kids body boarding on the sandspit …one yelled “NICE WAVE” he may have been the only one who witnessed the accomplishment .Twenty yeard ago I did it on a 12’ board with a paddle but this time I did it on an 11’rocker board.So I then crossed the river running cool fresh and clean {a rare occurence} dipped my self as in full imersion baptismal and mounted the berm and stones into the city of refuge ,thoughts of repeating ageless steps on an old trail modified over the centuries yet full of mana.This is a great day…greater than all of us …ambrose… we continue to be blessed by our circumstances…thanks for all of you being friends
Ambrose that post just put a smile on my face at the end of a bad day. RB
Aloha Mi Amigo Los Ambrose, as I get older it only takes a few days like that to keep me Stoked . Thanks for sharing . see you in a few weeks.Aloha KP
Beautiful. I hope tomorrow is even better.
Now THAT’S what I mean by…“Enjoying the ride!” It aint all about just riding waves. Like J. Lopez says, maybe it’s not until the second twenty years that you reeeeely start to get it. I’ll be starting my 3rd twenty years next year - maybe it will even get better! Pitty the foo that doesn’t seek to understand. On further thought, instead pray that he does, show him how. Aloha
and on the third day the exertiom kicked my exausted physiology’s butt three or four tiny,by comparrison to days past ,yet long rides…aloha in the line up .to be honered to surf with people not unsharing and surfing together responsibly and with pleasant attitudes … ambrose…aloha,you could not ask for more