I try paddling from the beach… no chance! i walk to the normal jump off spot “mugs”. no chance! way to gnarly today (scaling down a clif and jumping half way kinda stuff). I walk to the alternate jump off spot “slide”. I see mates Shaun (thekingofdub) and Jack. kingofdubs got flippers and his water camera and Jack’s not going in off slide, big leap into STRONG rip.
Jack says “you want to try paddling from the beach”… “okay then” i say. so we get in and kingofdub sits on the rock pool with his camera, its still a very hard paddle out but finally i made it, i clinch my fist in the air to Shaun. but Jack didn’t get through.
a set comes through… NICE looking solid wave, it closes out. I go to duck dive but decide to bail the whitewash… S***!!! that was POWERFUL! i bail another one, (must have been funny to watch), ooo *** i cant get up to the surface, i feel my feet hit the reef. lucky i sprung backoff and see a wave comming. no ones on it so i decide to take it… on take off i forget i’m riding a small twin fin in over 6’ powerfull waves. i prone it in and escape with a little cut on the bottom of my foot and a good story to tell.
hey josh i have to say that (for me) would have been one of the funniest wipeout iv seen happen to you i think i got a good photo of wade doing a sic cutback just on the inside. withyou just cumming up from that wipeout with a scared look on you face. when i get the photos developed i will post them up ay.
fark eh! i really wanted Wade to pull off that wave so i could catch it in. Ben you’d much rather see Wade rip than me bailing! for the record i didn’t wipe out, i just got caught inside. hehe
