tom blake racing 16/cigar box/kook box

Hi there,

I have been doing more than a little reading, including the archives section, as I am interested in building a Tom Blake style hollow paddleboard. I have done a lot of work in kayaks with stitch and glue and have some interesting ideas for a hollow paddleboard.

Going through the archive as well as checking out the surfresearch australia site, I have found several scans from a 1930’s Popular Mechanics article which show a grainy working drawing for constructing the “australian Racing 16/cigar box/kook box” by Tom Blake. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find a decent enough scan which shows all the information I need.

If there is anyone who might have access to either an original of the article or of a higher resolution scan of the drawings I would be interested in obtaining a copy.

thanks

You may be able to find an original copy of the Popular Mechanics magazine your aticle was in on ebay or at a used book store. Do you have the month of issue to find it? Those old Popular Mechanics magazines are everywhere for sale and don’t cost that much.

i wonder if the recent blake book(s) contains any information

that particular issue seems to be pretty popular; there is an “old magazine” store near me and although they had most every Popular Mechanics magazine ever printed, that one was long gone.

Huron- Check out this guy @ Vintage Wooden surfboards .com

http://vintagewoodensurfboards.com/

This guy is off the scale.

I have a copy of that article, shoot me your address my email is cgschuster@nospameknahawaii.com after you take out the nospam from that address.

I recently was lent a copy of the Tom Blake book. It does have a couple of sets of plans in it. I think the racing 16’ was one of them.platty.

Huron,

I got the article from Popular Mech. directly. If you cannot get it from them, or the other offers here for some reason. PM me. a clear copy will be sent.

Also - Dirk Langer - owner of the Co. on the website EP posted, was helpful to me when I built a box paddleboard. Just looking as his sight was a help too.

Eric

some friends, including the Malloy clan, used those same specs to build a series of kook boxes.we now have an annual kook box classic surf contest each spring.trunks only, combined total of time spent riding waves is the only criteria-Toatal Fun!!

Wow,

Haven’t been able to get onto the internet in a couple of days(double shifts in the ICU).

All the input is greatly appreciated.

Second question I have (not sure if I should start a new thread or post on this one) is “to glass or not to glass”.

Judging from what I have read from several different posts here on Swaylocks, and from my own research the issue really is one of waterproofing. Can I get similar qualities by using a really good spar urethane with several good coats and a drain plug, or should I seriously consider glassing. If glassing is going to be brittle( and the issues with UV breakdown) and on etc. Is upkeep going to be easier with urethane.

Yes I also spoke with Kirk who makes the wooden paddleboards and he is really cool and helpful. He could likely tell you how much weight the glass adds and how durable the unglassed boards are. I have a 12’ kook box from the 1950s, LA County lifeguard rescue board I think. Flat deck and rolled bottom, box rails. It weighs a lot, around 60+ pounds I would guess.

Matt-

Did you guys put skegs on your board? This one doesn’t track very well when paddling and I haven’t tried surfing it yet. I saw Dan Malloy’s board at Patagonia a month ago, saw how he rockered the nose but don’t recall the fin. Thanks.

Ride on,

Dan

yep- small tom blake templates for the fins.

huron,

I glassed with poly. Does add weight but I went light on the deck and bottom wood (beadboard paneling) so it needed the strength of glass.

If you just want to use spar Varnish, I’d think you’d want to pay very very careful attention to all the joins in the wood. Spar won’t lend strength (does it?) and if there is any flexing or opening of the joints it will take on water. Glassed the board can be water-tight even if the joins are not water-tight.

With either method of building you’ll need a drain plug.

Hope that helps.

Eric J