Here’s a little Quiksilver crew related story…
Years ago I take Greenough and another friend, Kiki O’brien from Panama up to the Ranch in my Whaler. There’s a good swell running and George says can we surf anywhere but what he called “Ego Peak”…by this he meant Rights & Lefts.
So we head up to the northern end of the ranch and end up at Gov’ts. It’s pretty good but not fully clocking in. A little later Kiki is hyping me to go down to see what Razors is doing…it was pretty big and promising but there were quite a few guys out earlier in the day. He’s my guest, so I say okay.
Kiki is stoked but George keeps saying "we’re blowing it, we were alone up there and the tide is changing and it is going to be going perfect up there in half an hour.
I’m the Captain, so I go with George, after all he’s part fish, maybe even more than human. So I swing us around and make a beeline back to Gov’s. Sure enough, George is on the money, an empty set is rolling in and no one in sight.
Kiki decides to get drunk as George and I paddle out. George on his air mat. Tide is in full swing and now it is just connecting all the way down the point. Epic. Good call George.
About 30 minutes before dark two station wagons come flying up in a cloud of dust on top of the point. 3 guys in each car, throwing on wetsuits, frantically running down to the water and paddling out.
I’ve caught a long one way down into the cove, and as I’m paddling back out I see the first guy take off. It’s a few feet overhead and this guy punches a turn with his left arm straight like a football player and his other arm bent up over his head, sort of like a waiter carrying a tray, except with a closed fist. He drives deep off the bottom and ricochets off the very top of the lip…
I’m paddling, and thinking “nice”!..the second bottom turn and he’s up to mach 2, he goes off the bottom hits the top and up and over to the other side, then SNAP!..and he redirects from the backside of the wave into the wave face.
All the while, he is getting closer to me in distance…by then I’m thinking “Hmmmm, I think this is somebody”…
The third time he is going even faster driving off the bottom in that same straight arm style and goes even faster and further onto the back side of the wave, quite a ways down its slope, and sure enough…SNAP!!! Back into the wave again…
By now he’s about 50 yards away from me and approaching rapidly…and by now I’m going “THIS IS SOMEBODY…NO WAY THIS ISN’T A ‘SOMEONE’…eh yeah, I think I got it”…
And as he comes flying up on me, he throws a huge curtain of water as he cuts back…
“Yup…Hakman”!
The next rider up is a kid, screwfoot…pretty hot, but nothing by comparison. Turns out it’s a crew of Quiksilver team guys from Oz & CA with Hakman.
I get outside and George floats over to me and says, “I’m ready to go when you are”.