Tour de Force...............

Yes, that’s helpful. I’m going to do it, I’ve just got to try it. So is there a formula as to how to determine the space between the two fins? I’m going to be trying this on a 5’10", 80’s style shortboard. Lot’s of float. Also, what size fin? 

Hey Bill,

Not easy finding Kiln-Dried hardwood in San Diego.

Most wood supplier’s only sell wet wood.

Call my friend Mitch @ Tropical Exotic Hardwoods in Carlsbad.

If he don’t have it, he’ll know where to find it.

Good guy.

An impressive surf-craft collection too.

(760) 268-1080.

Tell Mitch I said Hi.

Tropical Hardwoods carries a lot of Parota wood in huge slabs, which is pretty lightweight.  It comes from the Guanacaste tree, and has a lot of character.   Similar density to WRC and RW.  One of the guys there has shaped a board from a slab of Parota.

You might find something acceptable from that species and I’m sure theyd be honored to have you wandering their selection.

I love wandering around  that tropical hardwoods shop.  Love the smell.

I’ve left there with a lot of Pau Ferro, Bubinga, and Parota for non surf related projects. But some of that Bubinga had made its way into my next HWS tailblock. 

Am considering Parota for my rails rather than WRC or RW.  The clear RW around here is usually too White soft and without character, and WRC in the dimensions I require, were not found last I looked, a decade ago.

Aloha Monk, 

The fins are ALWAYS on 2 inch centers, regardless of the fin size.     For easy reference, there is a one inch wide space between two FU boxes.      For the size board you are considering, fins no less than 6 inches, and no more than 7 inches, will get you where you want to go. (IMO)       Your personal preference may be different than mine.    

what did I just read.

OMG what a crock of SHIT!

but, this it the best line.

 And for those who are offended by the term, yes there will be some ‘‘secret sauce’’, so there!    

 

I told the guys in the shop that the real way to do a twin fin was my close paired setup.      Right on down to the single foiled fins, flat sides out.  

That is a brilliant, honest. It really is.

Ta

See edit, #26 above…

Thanks for that link. Those boards are sweet. 

Thanks for the info Bill.

Hi Bill, thanks for all of the info. I am going to go with the 2" spacing as per your suggestions. It does appear that Neil Purchase is using a wider spacing with his boards; almost on the verge of becoming a twin fin (of sorts). Any opinions on his usage of fin spacing? Also, I understand and will use the foil that you used on your fins. Just curious though, did you do any testing with two ‘regular’ foiled longboard fins in each box? If so, were there any noticable results? And as a backup, I think I’ll add fcs/future boxes along the rails. Did you ever do anything like adding additional fins? If so, are there different spacing considerations than with a single fin box?

Thanks for any help.

Aloha Monk,  

The farther apart your fins are, the more the board will track.   (Resist turning input, and be less sensitive to rider input.)         Double foiled fins will work just fine, in my twin setup.      A 3/8th inch thich single foiled fin, will have the same camber as a double foiled fin, that is 3/4ths inch thick.       Guys that have done both, report a preference for my single foiled setup.    As to Neil’s fin setup, the wider spacing may feel more ‘‘normal’’ in resistance and ‘‘push back’’ to rider turning input.     

for Hardwoods have you checked with Frosts ? (mirramar) 

they had a huge stock of exotics last time I was there, big rack of quality Balsa

onsite mill , raw logs milled onsite.

 

It’s been well over a year since I’ve been to Frost.       No balsa then.       I’ll check them out, and see what they have now.    The first balsa I ever purchased, I got from Frost, in Feb. 1958.      They were in downtown San Diego then, on Market Street.

plant a seed.

Balsa ? we got time !

This project is now moving forward.      Wood has been selected for the soon to be chambered 3 inch center stringer bundle, and the blank is in.      A properly designed pintail gun, is about as beautiful as a surfboard can be.

With the blank in hand, and all the wood gathered, the next step is to pre-cut the rocker, and do the chambering of each piece, before glue-up.      This gun will get the vintage red dot decal, that was originlly put into service in 1962.     

So, here it is June, and this project got put aside, while attending to a series of  ‘‘honey do’s’’, like house painting.       But I’m back on track now, and will start on the chambering later today.    The finished width of the stringer bundle will be 3.125 inches.       The bundle will consist of four redwood pieces, and three balsa pieces.     The redwood pieces will be chambered, and the balsa pieces will be solid.    Visually this will be a very exciting board to look at.       The outline of this gun is a proven performer in larger waves.      The rocker and rails have been refined through decades of experience in a variety of surf conditions.      This thing will ride like a Cadillac, and turn like a Porsche.

 

The chambering was completed yesterday, June 8th, all freehand with a router.        So, it’s time for the glueup of the blank.     Preshaping, the weight reduction of the stringer bundle, is about 50%.         In the finished shape the bundle is expected to be about 35% of the original weight.        About the same weight as a single solid one inch Redwood stringer.       Not a bad tradeoff for the visual impact of over 3 inches of wood.       

Good on ya! I chambered an entire wood board made from 3/4" pine and redwood planks, the one in my little picure to the left  Took about a week. went from a 90# blank to a 28# finished board, so the 35% weight reduction sounds about right. I can only imagine what an impact look that stringer will have.