“Do you design surfboards?”
I haven’t touched a planer in a little under ten years. In fact
last year I sold off my last few rolls of glass, a bunch of other
build related stuff, and one of my planers.
“Your mathmatical skills are awesome!”
You flatter me, but if my mathematical skills were that awesome,
I suspect my answer to your next question would be different. And
anyway, its not really about the math, its more about the physical
approach. And my skills in that area are equally un-awesome.
“You have surfboard design down to a mathmatical formula! =)
If you do design surfboards I was just wondering if you create a
mathmatical formula formula for every custom shape you do? Or is that
just guess work based on what you know based on Weight X hight X
skill X waveX foot size?”
I have no mathematical plug-in model of the kind I believe you’re
referring to. But if you meant do I have a physical model in mind,
that is having some idea of what makes a surfboard go, which you can
relate to design, and maybe take forward, yes I guess I do.
“The subject here in this thread is like starting a
conversation about religion or oil! haha. I’m just curious. Are you
sure of all the variables in your formulas? Is there anything left
out? Water is such a unstable variable considering that we are
sometimes even riding through foam. What water temp. are your tests
based on and what speed is the board going? I’m sure density in water
changes with temp. Also chop, wind speed and if the wind is off shore
or on shore must play into this. Then, how much board are you dealing
with? A 9’0 or a 5’8? Also, How much curve the template in a board
has and where the apex is in realtionship to the rocker. This has a
direct effect on how the board goes on rail. The last photos of Dave
is a great example of " balance” in a surfboard design.
Looks like a quad set up. What ever it is the rail is burried up to
the nose. Sick shot.”
It’s only akin to religion or oil(?) if you want it to be. If you
want to design boards that move though foam, that somehow deal with
changes in water density, surface tension, etc. or something that
surfs well in chop – go for it. But, I’m arguing that you’ll be
that much farther ahead with some basic understanding of the dynamics
involved. Then again, maybe not – so just start guessing – it has
worked in the past.
“My point is is that there are soooooo many variables in what
maks a board work. You could NEVER figure it out with math. It’s like
trying to disect soul. You coud never bring up a discussion about
only fins or a fin set up with out laying down all of the varibles.”
Life is modeling. All is abstraction. Sounds mystical, but its
not. An abstraction captures essentials, but is never complete. If it
was complete, it would be the thing it’s abstracting. Even your
memories and experiences are incomplete. There is always a level of
detail which goes unnoticed, undocumented, unrecorded. So don’t trust
your memories or experiences? Also, because something is incomplete
now doesn’t mean that it will continue to be, at least become less incomplete in the future.
Still, I don’t see anyone anytime soon coming up with a formula
for a surfboard design, especially one based on first principles. But
so what? Because you can say that something is incomplete, only means
just that it’s incomplete. If you’ve decided that there are just too
many variables, then the job is done for you. Let the kooks who think
otherwise waste their time, and vice versa.
“Just a simple question. How fast does a normal surfer surf?
“
I don’t believe surfing is about speed. I believe it’s about
being able to get to where you need to get in the right amount of
time – or in a word, acceleration. The velocity of breaking wave is
constantly changing, as is the flow up its face, and as is the surfer
riding on its face – its all acceleration. The move to shorter
boards addressed this issue, as have many of the other design
elements which now are commonly found in surfboards, like multi-fin
configurations.
“I’d like to ask you a really great question. What percent in
your opinion does each of these variables make up a surfboard. In
order and percent. Rocker, template, bottom design, foam flow, fin
setup.”
Bottom (area) surface comes first, but constrained by an optimum
width range. That is, empirically the width range (maximum) of 50
centimeters plus or minus, seems to be what we humans like, (based on
what we like to do when surfing), the exact value depending on the
kind of conditions the board is being design for, and for whom its
being designed (“whom” as in the kind of surfer the designer has
in mind.) The minimum surface area, though it depends on
conditions, seems to fall around .4 meters squared. Also, start with
something flat, finless and virtually without volume… and then add
whatever it takes to make it work for you or for whom you had in
mind, that is give it the right amount user-friendliness (which by
the way is relative.) In the picture below, I think the hat is
optional (at least I think it’s a hat?), but I’m sure opinions will differ.
“Complete respect in what your discussion is about and you
seem very passionate about the math behind surfboard design.”
One of my passions is surfing, and when I not surfing, another one
is thinking about surfing. I would like to be building too, and
hopefully will again soon. But as it relates to my posts – that I
tend to be a bit more physical in my approach. is probably something
that just comes with the package…people are what they are.
By the way, questions are great, and I’m flattered that you seem to
have had a number about me, but I don’t speak for nor represent
Swaylocks or any of its members, well, other than myself. Hopefully in
the furture you won’t hold back on “assertions”, you know the
kind of statements people may actually find they differ with. It’s not the only
kind of exchange that happens on this forum, but its definitely one
of the ”fun” kind.
kc