I took Ambrose’s board out at sunrise this morning, I like it alot, not to mention Halcyon’s fin. I am now very late for my biology lecture. The full report is to follow. Thank You Ambrose
Your life will never be the same! Since having the distinct honor of being the first to ride the Famous Magic Travel Board(FMTB), life has been transformed in and around me. Be ready for a life time ride and glide!!
Keep the FMTB moving! Do you have the FMTB Black book? The book is key and I believe Ambrose would agree.
i don’t think i’ve ever seen it…does anyone have a picture? and when is the FMTB gonna make its way to the east coast?
I woke up this morning at 5 in order to make sure I had enough time to get the board wired before school. I didnt feel good about not riding it the first day I got her but Oceanside would not have been fun on her yesterday. So I promised her that I would take her out at first light the next day. I put Halcyon’s fin in about the middle of the box but a little closer to the stern since the drops looked steep from the hill above 15th street. I then desecrated the elaborate wax pattern by rushing to smear some more on before I missed another set. As I paddled out I realized that she is not an optimum board to duckdive, but she did turtle effortlessly. Once to the outside I sat up and began admiring here colors during one of those lulls that always happen the second you get through the white water and reach the outside. My first wave was a smaller right that definitely caught me off guard. The board flew without any effort on my part. After kicking out I had a pretty big grin and sprinted back to the peak ready for some more. For the record the first wave was ridden at 6: 37 Pacific Ocean San Diego Time. I then managed to get a juicier right that allowed me to play with the rails and the highline in no particular order. The board is unlike any board I normally ride, but I loved every wave. Most longboards I ride feel like they are riding deep in the water. However, Ambrose’s board with contours and edges and all felt like it was skimming on the surface of the wave. Halcyon’s fin felt very fast, stable and easy to turn( everything I want in a fin). I then got the left that the board was made for. I dropped into a 4-5 foot steep fast left. I was crouched and handling the outside rail instantly in order to get her flying. Then visions of barrels flew in my subconcious so I scooted forward and assumed a parrelel stance( Miki Dora inspired). I was so caught up in the moment and the speed that I next found my self on the nose ( or at least really close to it) in a full on parrellel stanced quasimoto. A barrel ride never materialized on that wave but I was as fully involved in the pocket as tight as possible. After that wave I was way amped and sat outside of the few surftech longboarders and waited for the real set waves that were steeper than their store bought boards could handle. The board made all of the drops regardless of angle, timing, or direction. Then fin also never let me down. The boards flat deck allowed me to scoot far forward while paddling for waves allowing early easy entry and less of a walk once I was standing. Before I knew it my two hours where up and I took off on a close out set wave and straightened out when it immediately closed out. Then surrounded by foam I dropped down into Greg Noll prone position and angled in on the reform all the way to the sand. And my day was made by 8 in the morning. I then also had the pleasure of watching sorority girls grimace at my bare sandy feet in lecture later that day. I cant wait to get the board out at a reef though and test out the flex speed fins too. You gave the world a great thing Ambrose. Thanks
This afternoon we took her on a field trip to swamis. Me, Chase and Brian rode many waves that were quite pleasurable while expirementing with the blue flex fin. The surf was clean and uncrowded and the board went great. Odds are some of the pictures we took came out too… Darren
thanks lads a fine shiver went down my left side all the way to my toes when you mentioned swami’s…
up the revolution
try it prone down the line in a gaping tube,the farther back the bette…enter the curl from the backdoor outside the impact…
sinister laugh#3…MUHAH HAH AHH MU HUUaahhhh
… ambrose… in the shadow of your delighted pleasure
I knew Darren would be the Perfect guy to scoot it along, nice , Darren take pics and do the black book . Good on ya Darren.Ambrose Im off to the Rancheros Visitadores ride on fri. to the mission Santa Ynez. I got Rosie , Tony Alvis,s mule, who was taken in the La Cochita slide , he will be missed deeply,I will be humming the song of the Vaqueros de Los Olas. Aloha KP
Hey Darren what up with the board? give us a update.
please can someone photograph the board ?? …please ?!
I have no idea what it is …
I think these are the FMTB: http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=175690#175690
they continue on to the next page.
well chipinstnzig that there was a tourde forzea la 2004 swayloholixphoto bust out did ya satisfy yer visual deficit?
I only had time for page one cruiseing.and now I must exaunt to the lasd of obligatory dustmaking
1tbsp. braggs apple cider vinegar 24oz water,what a way to start a day!
good rain just started falling
a garden island loves the rain
so did the board make the next hand off yet ?
is it at lee’s house yet?
summer’s here and if darren is goin north…
keith gets a turn…
and the cycling shouldn’t get bogged down
let er rip!!! t- J an nelida an paul jensen an…ad infin itum
I already knew that your senses were finely tuned but this is unreal. I loaded the board into LeeV’s rig this afternoon. He is delivering it to Keith’s who is then gonna let a Sway- East guy give it a go for his honeymoon, I think. We managed to give her seven sweet sessions during her stay with us. I feel bad that school and weather got in the way but I feel as though we did not let her down. My personal fin ranking after less than extensive testing goes… On second thought i will let everyone else figure it out. The board works great with all of them, just better with some of them. Hopefully with one board less in the garage I will be able to focus on finals just a little bit better. And for the record try as we might we could not ding her. Some in the water disposable camera shots came out too, to be recorded in the book indefinitely. Darren
The travel board lies cradled in my racks waiting for a memorable Memorial Weekend…I can tell its been in good hands, a Matt Miller wax job and a nice dusting of urethane foam from Darren…I was honored to gaze upon the ultimate surf rat set up this afternoon. Darren and his crew have created a classic. Their shaping room would make George Greenough proud and the garage…well, watch out Kirk!
and the game begins again
lest the swell be laking
i sure give my backing
let the set of sets
assemble me firsters inside
to sit and watch the paloma glide
overhead as the many blessed board
carries the rider deep and far as lord
of the manor borne to amicable conclusion
bringing reality to pass inspection beyond illusion
and if the elder Frye should pass by
beseach him a try to let the board fly
for beneath the the feet and on the wave
a fullfillment so sweet to the taste of San Diego de las olas
every day a new success
may your finals successes trancend all expectations
good job lad!
I hear TJ passed the contractors test
Some in the water disposable camera shots came out too, to be recorded in the book indefinitely
please post them here , for the whole big world that exists outside of cali to see … cheers ! ben
Got the intrepid Travel Board into a little better surf than our first shin-high session. Shoulder to head high fat peaks. Not a whole lot of wall to work with but more that enough speed to get a feel for bottom turns and cut backs. I put a nice 8.5 inch Ames Frye half way up in the box…yummy. You can really feel the concaves squirting and lift during the turns. Surfs very much “on top of the water”. I really liked it backside. It loves to duckdive…no matter how far I paddled into the channel, little puffs of white water would defy newtonian physics to break on my head. Seemed like I was spending more time underwater than on top. I fully blame some kharmic retribution for my plight. Need to fiddle with the fin location but not enough time.
I’m going to take it up to the Velzy Paddle out on Tuesday. Just seems like the right thing to do…
chicken skin .to think it’ll be at the velzy…
jabba dabba doo…ambrose…
…WHERE is it now ???
has it been surfed since June 2005 ???
…photos , where are the PHOTOS of it being surfed ??
…okay , you guys have mentioned some were taken …
…we’re WAITING …patiently …
Has it made it to LA? Will it? I’d come get it if it’s somewhere in S. Cal…