Was looking at pictures of a guy shaping in his shop the other day and looked as if he was truing up his outline with his planer right after cutting the outline out. Anybody else use the same method, seems like it’d work great except I’d be a little hesitant with a more close tolerance blank.
Was looking at pictures of a guy shaping in his shop the other day and > looked as if he was truing up his outline with his planer right after > cutting the outline out. Anybody else use the same method, seems like it’d > work great except I’d be a little hesitant with a more close tolerance > blank. …Sure,just keep the setting at zero or a very,very,very slight cut,the planer will seek a level playing field.If your new to this practice on something first!Herb
…Sure,just keep the setting at zero or a very,very,very slight > cut,the planer will seek a level playing field.If your new to this > practice on something first!Herb Listen to the shapers who are in the know. I watch guys who think of them selves as real heros, truing up outlines with a surform and neatly leaving the pencil line showing all around. This means nothing, I draw out boards that look great, but when I clean them up with the planer, there are at times places where the pencil line is cut clean away and other spots that skip it for feet at a time. This is because the planer never lies, it will NOT go and errantly dive into the outline or swing wide, it finds the cleanline.
hey Jim, where does the planer ride when doing that? front shoe or the base? I tried it after watching your vid. it was ugly. had a hard time feeling where the planer was and should be riding. not to mention my lapse of reason when I turned it on with the exhaust pointing right in my face,HA!
…Sure,just keep the setting at zero or a very,very,very slight > cut,the planer will seek a level playing field.If your new to this > practice on something first!Herb practice on some masonite while youre making your templates!!!
hey Jim, where does the planer ride when doing that? front shoe or the > base? I tried it after watching your vid. it was ugly. had a hard time > feeling where the planer was and should be riding. not to mention my lapse > of reason when I turned it on with the exhaust pointing right in my > face,HA! It is neither front nor back, but the area of the cutter itself. It is the space between your hands, a nice neutral feeling, running on a very small cut and as you pick up speed, then open up the cut to hear and feel the blades getting a bite on the foam. You can run back and forth cutting nearly nothing and gradually get the feel for how deep and how fast you can go.
Was looking at pictures of a guy shaping in his shop the other day and > looked as if he was truing up his outline with his planer right after > cutting the outline out. Anybody else use the same method, seems like it’d > work great except I’d be a little hesitant with a more close tolerance > blank. I clean my out line with a planer on rail and as long as you always start at a square point to set your angle… When you put the board in the racks on rail you can square the bottom to the rail seeing and high and low spots. As Jim and Herb said keeping it closed or ever so lightly open to just hit the highs. Remember tyhe back shoe part of the planer is always following you lead??? What your blades cut the planer follows. The first thing i do is square up the nose and tail with a surform to give me a square starting point then i finish with the planer to the nose and tail points. then i hit the outline with a hard sanding block to blend the nose and tail to the Rail?? #1 cut close and square. #2 square the rail at nose and tail… #3 rack on rail and wedge foam rubber between deck and rack. Then with little wedge foam blocks Square the bottom to the racks. Hence Square it all… #4 Plane then blend the nose and tail to the rail with a few passes of the sanding blocks… #5 if your rail is not square then your rail will have bumps trust me… Final word… The more you use your planer the more true your shape will be… http://surfnwsc.com
I use the same technique of turning the board on its edge in the rack and use foam to hold it square. It works really well, and you can certainly hear the planer hit the highs and lows. After a few light passes you should hear the planer hit foam from the start of your cut to the end. P.S. to Rob Brown. I haven’t heard back from you about the resin tints. Travis