UV box for UV resin

Hello, thanks for your response to the UV lamp thread, now i found what i was searching for:

  • UV lamp: Osram Eversun: 80W: $11.00, 100w: $14.00 (each)

  • Ballast: $12.00 (each, you need one for each tube)

  • Bi-Pin sockets (2 per tube) $0.40

Now i want to make an UV box as small as i can to fit in my shape/glass room, to cure my boards inside. I think that a box with 10 tubes of 59’’ long will fit. That means six tubes on the top (2+2+2) and two tubes on each rail (again 2+2), so this will easily cover an area of 10’ long x 24’’ wide.

The thing is that the tubes will be at least 80w, so that means a total of 800w inside the box…

I was planing on making a 10’x26’‘x11’’ wood box to fit on the ceiling of my shaping room and i wonder:

  • do the wood will be damaged with all the heat of the 800w lamps? and what about the board?

  • do i have to make the box of metal with some air ventilation?

  • how close can be the UV tubes to the board?

Thanks in advance!


Yo Coque.Did you ever get the planer to work right?I saw a UV box like you are talking about and the guy had lined it with aluminum foil.It reflected the light and heat.I don’t think that flourescent lights get hot but some of the other guys may know.Actually the “box” was made from one of those cardboard tubes they use for concrete molding.It was cut in half and formed a nice curve.They use these tubes for pouring concrete pilings and I think that they are really cheap.His unit hung from the ceiling and he lowered it with a pulley when he wanted to cure the board,The curve of the box enabled him to cure the ticked under laps also. RB

Thanks Cleanlines. I though about this kind of installation, but i prefer to do a closed box because my room is my “shaping / glassing / sanding room”, so i try to keep it clean, but i know that when i’ll be downloading the UV box close to the board, some dust (from shaping or sanding) will appear and will fall and will ruin my glass job or my hotcoat…

About the planer, it has this “step” i talked you about, and it’s a really “big” step. I think that maybe the same hit that broke the knob during the shipping, made this misadjusting. I have the older Hitachi/ClarkFoam version (the big one), so i’m planning about selling both and buying a new one, or just selling the small one to someone who doesn’t mind this “step”. I still don’t know. I also thought about trying to fix the problem but i’m affraid of opening the planer… if it’s easy, i can find used parts for this planer.

By the way, what do you thing about the new “Hitachi/ClrankFoam”? would you recomend this one or the great Skill 100?

Thanks for everything RB!


The new Clark planer looks good to me,I always thought that the main problem with the old ones was the handle.Now that they have redesigned the handle in a more upright position it may be really nice.I have never used one though.I personally like the Skil but they are expensive and parts are a problem.Here is a thought Coque…many years ago I spoke with a retired Skil sales guy and he told me that SKil sold a lot of planers to the wood boat guys in Portugal ( and maybe Spain?).They are master boatbuilders and the Skil was the planer of choice for American boat guys also.Maybe you could contact some fishermen or repair yards over there and try to find one.Download a picture of one so they know what you are talking about and maybe you will get lucky.Skil also sold planers in Holland but they converted them with a different motor and cutterhead shaft. RB


Good information. Portugal is 30 minutes from my home, i’ll ask the next time i’ll go there to catch some waves.


There is an insulation material that is made from foam and has a metalic like reflecting surface on it. It is about 3/4" to 1" thick and is very light. It could be used inside of frames in to build your UV cure box. I have seen boxes made with type of material for a liner and it used for the the door. If the box is mounted on the wall so it is a little further from the floor that it is high when you swing the door open it will hang straiht down and not interfere with taking the board in and out. The top of the box will then be a height that will serve as a well organized landing for many useful things. Florescent lights don’t generat very much heat . Most of the boxes I see are just lit on the top and sides much the same way you are planning yours and if left on overnight the temperature stays right around 70 to 75 degrees. Cpnsider giving the box a little extra lenght and width. It can’t be a bad idea cause you never know how big the next project is going to be.

I’ll be there are some pros out there that have some suggestions about the finer details of such a UV curing box.

Mahalo, Rich

Mahalo, Rich

Hey Rich, thanks!, you gave me a great idea telling me about this material, i think this will work.

The box will be installed as close to the ceiling as it can be because i don’t have more space on my shaping room, but it’s tall, so i can make the box and put it over the place were i shape. Now i store there three longboard foams and they fit OK, so i think that the UV box will fit too. My shape room it’s at my father’s house and i don’t want to borrow more space from his garage.

Once the UV box is finished i’ll post some photos here so maybe it will give some ideas to oder people.

Good waves!