waahoo , i make my own vents , theres some pics on another thread on vents , also theres some other good information on the same thread posted by others …
glenn…
i wouldnt recomend peelply…
as you guys are on a budget , youll be real annoyed if you learn the hard way …
use a plastic breather instead as well as bubble wrap ,
if you use peel ply directly onto wood , it will pull of chunks of wood away when you peel it up …
have you seen that material that looks like cling wrap with tiny holes in it, that wont stick , then all youll have to sand off is small nodes of excess resin …
Thanks!!! What was I thinkin’, of course it would pull up chunks if directly to balsa. I know the stuff your talking about. In boat building we used it when bagging the foam core to the glass laminate. What a disaster that could have been. Yikes!
i made some stuff years back , i used pvc pipe or electrical conduit ,18mm or 3/4" …
you get 2 equal lengths , long enough to go across your bag,
get 1 peice and carefully plane or sand it so you have a little over half left maybe 5/8 of a circle , sand any sharp edges off ,
then your whole piece of pipe will snap into the u shaped modified piece…
for us they were a drama coz they took up space , imagine a bag where you have a 4’ pole stuck to one end ,
i used to have a huge wall oven that held up to 12 boards , you needed a ladder for the top shelf , could vacumn them all at the same time , it was a lot easier for us to use tape , coz then we could fold the bags so the vac job sat neatly on the racks , with boards everywhere under vacumn , moving them around easily was important , the snap lock system didnt last the week , the time and drama saved far offset the extra tape wasted …
but if your doing one offs and will leave it there …snap lock is fine …
Diclaimer: I am only going off what i have read on swaylocks but from what I gather…
I dont think that you can/should do both sides using a flat table. Not sure that the skin would then bend enough to form to the boards rocker. I could be completely wrong though.
I think it was cmp who did his tape (cheapest masking tape you can get) on the inside of the balsa and left it there between the glass and balsa. You could then put the top layer of glass on without having to worry about pulling the tape up. Not sure what effect this would have on the overall bond and strength though.
hope this helps a bit, but i would be interested in some answers from those in the know as well
