hi,
silly, I didn’t know that your very good in vacuum bagging 
I’m loving these vacuum bagged boards…the one above is made by a friend, with our “technique”
thanks for your advice it’s very good.
I’m researching some things at the moment and think about some new stuff…I will definately post my next board that you see how good it will look
bye
I bought the Stretchlon!
ah yeah the thing with the strechlon is also good.
do you use something that sucks all the resin like a fleece when you use the stretchlon?
Hugo,
The Stretchlon is typically used as the outer bag material. It was being suggested to used it also as a release in lieu of peel-ply. There are also thin films with perforations that can be used as a release film with your bleeder/breather material between the release film and bag. You may have to sand before subsequent applications of hot coat, finish etc as opposed to the bondable finish you get with peel-ply. With thin layups like surfboards, kiteboards, and windsurfers the problem seems to be avoiding getting too dry a laminate. The best advantage is being able to use materials that soak up excessive resin or expand when laminated by hand. This would include such materials as non-wovens (laminate bulkers), Innegra, Xynole, Dynel, and Spectra. With some of these materials you weigh the laminate and wet it out on a wet-out table with an equal amount of resin. The laminate may seem dry but with the right materials in the bag the resin gets where it needs to and you get a light strong laminate.
regards,
Dave D
Hi DaveD -
The idea of Stretchlon as a peel ply is just to avoid wrinkles. Other stretchy material would work. Brainstorming with Surfding it was brought up as a way to pull the first ply over the laminate and progress from the center edges to the ends. An overlap of some sort at the ends would still be required but as long as the material was pulled tight and secured with tape (as in Sullivan video) you would avoid most if not all of the wrinkles along the rails the OP was asking about eliminating.
as long as the material was pulled tight and secured with tape (as in Sullivan video) you would avoid most if not all of the wrinkles along the rails the OP was asking about eliminating.
hey john i was talking primarily about bagging the glass ONLY. no sandwich with a very dry laminate. so its just many layers of glass and the gelcoat would be semi cured already so it wouldnt soak into the laminate. although i think trying to do it all in one is pointless when you can hot coat and sand a board in under an hour. if you did this style of skin on a poly urethane blank and you didnt have to worry about polyester resin going through the pinholes into the core then you could do the hotcoat in UV poly rez. if you added the sandwhich skin it would be a very strong board indeed. . imagine 4 layers of 6 oz over say cedar. or even chuck in a layer or two of kevlar and then finish coat in spray acrylic. polyester boards are very good looking boards with sparling optical qaulitys. and the consumers like this. i dont think you could make a light bullt proof board with the opticals of polyester over PU.
i have experimented with a infusion resin and it drys quite flexible until heat cured. almost like a sheet of rubber. also it becomes more flexible again when you start the heat process. the idea of doing it flat so you could pull maximum HG for a very dry thin laminate. and then apply to blank with only enough pressure to attach to the blank. I believe there is a combination possible and process to achieve something like this. but have never done IT so it just a idea at this stage. but it makes more sense to use bagging in this way as i dont see any advantage of doing it to plain glass on a board when i can already make a nice strong board with handlam that looks great as well. the advantage of bagging is a 100 to 200 grams at the most and the board would be no stronger. but would take longer and most likely be ugly
basically im talking about making some type of prepreg. that could be stored indefinatley under refridgeration. the only thing maybe a problem would be the laps and how easily they will conform.
perhaps handlam the laps first or after if it isnt possible to get them to conform. i think they will conform with the right methods tho
just to add a link to this thread:
http://nelsonfactory.com/en/the-factory/video1.php
for anyone considering the full monty sandwich construction, the Nelson crew have imho the most impressive production videos.
hi dave,
great great stuff, I found some little things to improve! I’m doing mostly the same, but there are some little tricks I didn’ know…
thanks a lot!
My machine was build by the same guy that built mine. (John Yow) One of the best.
Shape 3D and a 3DM machine. Dreamy combination.
Vacuum bag set up and it's a piece of cake!