Hey Lavarat… that board is cool. It’s pretty similar in appearance to this except mine is kind of junky. It was my first glass job, so…
Here are some pics after lamming the bottom. Dark tints are tough. This week only, fingerprints along laps are no extra charge! Thanks for shopping at hoharlabs!
Does anyone have tips on masking the resin bleed on the balsa. I don’t really want a 1 inch thick pinline. I was considering using a balsa colored acrylic to cover the bleeds. Then maybe noone will see other than me.
hunter
The balsa has to be sealed at the pin line. (Ask me how I know. ha) Just brush a light coat of epoxy along the tape line and lightly sand for the tape. Then tape. On a regular lam job guys spray a little clear over the tape edge to ensure resin doesn’t seep under the tape.
Hunter,
I have over half a gallon of Roo Clear. Could send you some if you would like. When I was looking to buy I think I saw that some of the Fastenal dealers carry it. Quick to set up it is not. Like John Mellor was saying some materials behave very differently under vacuum. Have fun.
Dave_D
Can you guys give me some good sites to do some research on this. Ive been building boards in the philippines for the last two years and I can get ahold of the video here. Ive done quite a few epoxy boards and would like to get into some vac bagging to get a better bond. I cant find a site that explains all the components clearly like what the breather and peel ply are made of. Thanks in advance guys.
Thanks for that Dave! I’m not sure if I’ll end up using a slow adhesive on my next project. What sort of things do you feel the roo is well suited for?
Here are some pics of my progress, including a colored tail patch for the swallow (since a cutlap won’t do this) and the keels I’ve made for this board:
If you look at the plys, I tried to foil the inside of the fins abit ‘flatter’ than the outside. We’ll see how that goes.
hunter
Try:
http://www3.gurit.com/pdfs/vacuum/vacuum_consumables.pdf
Ian:
What was your glassing schedule on that board? I’m planning on doing single 6 bottom, which you see above, and double 4 deck. Do you think that’ll cut it?
Oh yeah, when I was asking about masking the bleeds, I didn’t mean preventative measures, rather, I want some damage control. All the stuff everyone said makes sense and if ever I do a colored lam and balsa again, then I’ll heed the advice. At this point though, I’m wondering how to clean up my mess. Any suggestions other than my plan to paint over the bleeds with a tan acrylic?
Also, the pic makes my outline look abit wonky (to use one of my favorite swaylocks vocabulary words). It’s better in real life. I swear! hehe. Seriously!
hunter
Hi,
I don’t know any way that you can safely get rid of those bleed marks, so might only be an option to cover it up.
I know you said you didn’t want to do an inch thick pin line, but I think that kinda suits the look of the board.
Heres some other ideas for a cover-up,
If you could match the colour reasonably close with paint, you could extend that colour out over the bleed marks.
Then do a nice fine pin line where the new paint and old colour join, (where your pin line would have originally gone) and an identical pin line on the new inside edge of the paint.
The colour wouldn’t have to be a perfect match, cos there seperated by the pin line.
Or, get arty, and do some kind of freehand scribble pin line that covers the bleed. Or makes a feature of it, like it was supposed to be there. That would be hard to do well though.
I’m not particularly arty, so precise tape-offs and easy sprays work for me!
Just some ideas.
Kit
I am going 6oz+4oz on top because I want the weight. I think 4oz+4oz would be fine.
I would pre seal the balsa with two coats of resin or dewaxed shellac(Zinsser Universal Sanding Sealer).
I have seen some good falsa balsa paint jobs.The paint dries a little darker than when wet.
If you really want it to look PRO sand down the bad spots and glue a thin piece of wood on and blend with sand paper, you won’t even see it.And their is always the wood dust and resin putty trick.
have fun,
Ian
Thanks for the links Ridks. Ill go do my reading up.
I think the huge pinline is your best option and won’t look bad, but if you insist on fixing it and making it look good I think you could dig the color out of the balsa and fix your balsa tear outs as outlined by the boardlady, she gets good results with that system. I’ll warn you now though that you’re making a lot of unnecessary work for yourself that an old school fatty pinline would make short work of.
http://www.boardlady.com/surftechveneer.htm
Did I mention that a fatty pinline will save you hours of grueling work?
fosta
I’ve put up some more progress shots of this board here:
http://hoharlabs.com/…php/topic,10.15.html
if anyone is interested. Viva la hohar!