vanish question...

Hi, Just read the archives, recommend a vanish gloss coat on a epoxy board. My friend just remind me decorative vanish is becoming weak in contact with saltwater. So do you guys use marine vanish or just decor vanish? Thanks for your attention. Regards, Crabie

…On a recent hollow wood board, I used an outdoor gloss polyurethane …It’s cheap, goes on easy, levels out nice, and dries hard…It seems to not be affected by a few hours of salt water exposure … Constant imersion might be another issue… It looks incredible on a wood board, but it does have a slight amber tint, possibly an factor if your concerned with a white as snow appearance… Paul

crabie, i really like minwax gloss polyurethane. the oil-based one, NOT the ‘water clean-up one’. a thin brushed on coat, on top of a 320 sanded hotcoat is very tough, and nice looking. ONE DRAWBACK - slight amber tint, which you may not want on a new white stick. it’s been a cheater gloss coat for me, and i’ve had no adhesion problems or failures.

crabie, i really like minwax gloss polyurethane. the oil-based one, NOT > the ‘water clean-up one’. a thin brushed on coat, on top of a 320 sanded > hotcoat is very tough, and nice looking. ONE DRAWBACK - slight amber tint, > which you may not want on a new white stick. it’s been a cheater gloss > coat for me, and i’ve had no adhesion problems or failures. …you could try linseed oil instead.Herb

Thanks Paul, I do have pu coating but it seems to be quite difficult to use. I tried it on my last board, when I brushed it back & forward, it left obvious brush stroke. The most problem it gells very fast before I spread it evenly on my board. So I leave a 3/4 gallon in my store room. Regards, Crabie

Thanks Ramon, One more question…Gloss polyurethane as the oil based one, does it mean should be mixed with thinner? Regards, Crabie

Thanks Herb, Let me describe the one I m using. Its a two parts pu coating, slight smelly, mixing ratio is 3:1. The supplier told me its using for two purpose, first, it serves as the outer protective coating, second it can be mixed with paint for color objects. The guy also told me it could be hand paint. The instruction said mixing two parts and stir it well, waiting for 30 minutes until all the bubbles gone. Apply to clean surface. I tried it on my last board, it left obvious brush stroke and it gelled quickly before I can spread it evenly on the deck. Regards, Crabie…

no, don’t thin it. cleanup with mineral spirits. it’ll look thin out of the can, but has real good ‘body’ once it dries. http://www.minwax.com/produse/clear/pucfpu1.htm

Thanks Herb,>>> Let me describe the one I m using. Its a two parts pu coating, slight > smelly, mixing ratio is 3:1. The supplier told me its using for two > purpose, first, it serves as the outer protective coating, second it can > be mixed with paint for color objects. The guy also told me it could be > hand paint. The instruction said mixing two parts and stir it well, > waiting for 30 minutes until all the bubbles gone. Apply to clean surface. > I tried it on my last board, it left obvious brush stroke and it gelled > quickly before I can spread it evenly on the deck.>>> Regards,>>> Crabie… …the batch was to hot use less catalyst next time.Herb

That’s what I thinking of… Thanks Herb. Crabie

no, don’t thin it. cleanup with mineral spirits. it’ll look thin out of > the can, but has real good ‘body’ once it dries. and this would work instead of a spray laquer coat? after hotcoating?

that is correct, sir! brush on ONE THIN coat, and don’t disturb it. hopefully, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. all the rules still apply; don’t do it in sunlight, clean surface, and dust-free environment, of course. after hot coat and sanding, before painted pins. to restore in the future, sand off and re-apply takes about an hour (pins aside, naturally)>>> and this would work instead of a spray laquer coat? after hotcoating? http://www.minwax.com/produse/clear/pucfpu1.htm

make that AFTER any painted on pinlines. sorry

I tried all the things you said, but my board Still won’t go away! I think all this vanish talk is nonsense! (sorry, I couldn’t resist!) aloha! Tom

Thanks Paul, I do have pu coating but it seems to be quite difficult to > use. I tried it on my last board, when I brushed it back & forward, it > left obvious brush stroke. The most problem it gells very fast before I > spread it evenly on my board. So I leave a 3/4 gallon in my store room. I had the same problem with a varnish(sp?) I used on my board. It would leave brush strokes on my board, the varnish would get tacky really fast leaving even more brush strokes if I tried to fix the first brush strokes. It took forever to dry fully pluss it was toxic as hell, it had a warning basically saying don’t plan to get any kids for a long time if you use this stuff. I went out and got a thinner, easier flowing varnish. I also bought a high quality wide brush to brush it on faster, sanded out the old varnish and did it all over again. The varnish leaves a beatuiful albeit slippery finnish. Personnally I think the good brush is the key and would have worked wonders with the thick varnish as well, but the thinner varnish makes it all easier. Good luck. regards, Håvard