I had a surf on 'Kiricore’s 6’6 " hollow wooden twin keel “fish” this morning . Thanks , Shane , nice board !! …fun to ride !!
Also , Ian rode the 7’ single fin , with the winged keel in the box.
And Shane rode the 6’2 len dibben twin FIN 1970s swallowtail .
A fun morning , thanks , guys … Board swaps are fun !
ben
p.s. - it was a nice sunrise at 5.30, too !
What was the HWS like to ride, did it feel heavy…
hiya Hicksy !
yep !!
…especially after having ridden Josh’s light ‘Sunova’ thruster last week !
I caught two rights on it , and one word …MOMENTUM !! [ONCE it got GOING , that is …it certainly felt like inertia to start with , though !] It DID feel smooth to paddle , though …very stable !!
Duckdiving was a bit tricky … [I got smashed on one !]
A 5’10’’ x 20" x 2 1/4" -3/8" [max!] version of Shane’s board would have been just right for me in those waves this morning [because my 3" thick Dibben twin fin , at 3 1/8" thick , was WAAAY too floaty in the more hollow waves , but fine in the majority of high tide ones coming through this morning !]
Shane’s ‘fish’ is something like 6’6 [!!] x 23" [!!] x 3" [!!] …waaay too long , wide , and thick for my size . But a fun board , nontheless , and the craftsmanship is very impressive …Pascal and Ian were both VERY taken with the finish of it , Shane ! [I can’t wait to see your 12’ board , when it is finished !]
cheers
ben
I had some fun ones on my MR twinnie today too. stoked it wasnt even cold in a springy. yesterday was freazing!
I’m thinking of taking the 6’4 cooper singly out tomorrow …
Ben
this shot shows what i was talking about in the other thread about the board staying really nice in the curl.
again…
such a nice “in the curl” design.
Looks like your getting some nice waves over there Ben. i miss surfing with you guys.
catchya
josh
I’m thinking of taking the 6’4 cooper singly out tomorrow …
do it!! that’d be sick fun.
…I can’t work out how come whitewater shoots out from between my legs though ?
think I should see a doctor , maybe ??
ALL DAY OFFSHORE !! [an extreme rarity here !]
After a fun early surf with Ian [‘sandgroper’] on my bushy, with the ‘3 rail to rail inline fins’ setup , I then had a surf with Pascal on my 7’ single fin .
The swell had picked up a bit , there was a nice right bank , and Pascal got some good lefts on his ‘speedneedle’ twinny !
fun fun fun !
cheers
ben
You seem to get bloody good shape over there mate, and clean smooth faces. I went out yesterday in fat high tide waves after work, when a big one actually came along, it would just close out!. The surf lately has been decent, but nowhere near as good as a few months ago, add in more and more people in the water from now on, and it gets a bit frustrating. Its been a while since ive had a really good surf. Lately i have been settling for 1 or 2 good waves when i go out. But i just learned my uncle got a caravan down the south coast, ( about 2 hours south of wollongong ), so after christmas, im gunna head down and check it out. Its about 50m from a long uncrowded beach. fingers crossed.
Cheers
good surf man
chip LOL @ your signature . . . haha that’s a good one !!!
Hey is the surf like that in most of the breaks there most of the time?
Only the strong eh chipper.
Did I hear bird noises?
well , “bird noises” came a few years later , but yes …you heard them , oh wise one !
oh crap, I better stop posting these shots eh ? or we’ll get inundated by people thinking perth goes off all the time !
[it goes OFF alright …flat from now till april, usually ,
howling onshores ALL winter ,
sharks ?
you’ve never SEEN so many in your life …did I mention BIG ??
and if the sharks don’t get you , the red back spiders , the dugites , the speed taking heavy locals or maybe just the lack of banks will !]
So , in answer to my self brought on questions …
nah ! … ‘was’ , NOT ‘WOZ’ !
cheers !
bent ( locals)
a ‘standard’ 6’ thruster …
a coupla 6’ers…
a 7’ single fin …
5’7 stubbie…
6’4" Bob Cooper [with a nod of the head to the zep’s “houses of the holy” album cover]…
cheers !
ben
…more tomorrow… it’s ‘goodnight’ for now !
sharks ?
you’ve never SEEN so many in your life …did I mention BIG ??
This is an awesome thread! keep up the great work chipper.
Ben- the Cooper looks like a fun board but where’s the winged keel pics- I’m waiting to get one from Solosurfer!
hi Kirk !
welcome back !
…have you been getting some waves ? long time no hair hehee
I sent you a p.m. recently …thanks !
Okay , in the words of Julius Sumner Miller …
“all because yoooou asssssked fer it !!”
here’s Ian [‘sandgroper’] , with the fin in question …he got some and enjoyed it [waves , that is black gold , texas tea …oops wrong channel] …‘green little waves , scarbro glass’…
I LOVE this photo ! [check his DIAL , eh ?!]
" the early bird …" , etc …
[‘beat the sunrise , beat the crowds’…]
