Knocked out a little twinfin that has been working unreal for me. A friend
asked for one, but wants a center trailer added. This one will be boxed
with FCS Fusion. If I can put one in somehow, it will be as far back as it can go … but, I can’t figure any way to make this work given the vee & the concave. Maybe grind the sides of the box down? Any advice for me out there?
shapes looks great! twin fin - inspired by akila? i know i have been thinking of doing one similar for a while now after seeing one of his…
why not just put the original FCS plugs for the rear fin?
…well, the shape is just finished but you can make differents V bottoms (in the crown of the V) depending on devices that will be installed or channels (and type of channels)
you go with FCS but with FU s you dont have problem with that V
sounds to me like your question is how to router the blank to get the plugs or whatever, on straight.
Just shim your template.
Actually is the customer really gonna change the back fin? If not then glass it on?
+1 opinion for glassing on a 3" trailer…
Glass it hot coat install your fcs they will sand out to conform to shape If I were you I would convert to Probox solid footprint and gives you some fin placement options!! Nice shape!!! Give us some dimensions!!!
CG
Your shapes continue to improve and impress (although IMO that tail could be a little thinner).
If you’re determined to use Fusion, I’d route the hole, shimming the jig to level; then test fit the ‘‘box’’ to mark it for alteration. Regular FCS plugs would be much easier in this application, narrower and much easier to ‘‘shape’’ post install.
Aipa? Know the dad but not the son. I rode twins long long time ago Here’s a shot of me 15yo, late 1978 Dennis Pang T&C twin my home break Makaha:
Hmmm might be the plan, thanks! … although I’ve never installed original FCS
Fins Unlimited/Futures? Thanks yeah narrow box that would probably be eaier to blend into the bottom … the guy I’m making it for wants FCS though. I thought about making taking a few passes with the planer, starting a few inches ahead of the box to try blend in a flat spot along the stringer/bottom?
Thanks man… yeah a small glass on would be logical but I’m thiking I really ought to convince the guy that with the right twin fins trailer is not needed
Thanks, forgot about ProBox! Hmmm
5’6 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/16
Wow, thanks Mike! That means a lot but if you saw my shapes/glassing in person you’d probably have different opinion!
I’ve always been fond of thicker tails on my short short boards & this template at 5’6 the thickness foil/tail (to my beginner eye) ‘looks’ right. I’m cutting these from a USB6’2P to get the extra thickness & vee, messing with the rocker a bit too. Basically running blind, grasping in the dark hoping for the best 
If you want/have a minute take a look, I have a ton of pics of a few recent builds at this page on my website http://www.808surfer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1067&start=225
Yeah, actually I’m tempted to glass it then farm the FCS plugs out to a pro, then finish it myself. I really don;t see myself installing any more original FCS so don;t want to invest in the jigs/tools/learning curve
…yes, pass the planer there
is a good option right now to help with that fusion box
Great looking stick Bud. My advice: use fusion plugs on the sides and plugs for the center. All you need is an 1 1/8" hole saw. Cut the holes through the glass with the centering bit extended then take the bit out and cut the hole to depth and pop the plugs out with a small flathead screwdriver. You can use a router or a 1" Forstner bit to clean up the holes. Use your center fin as a jig, just tape it in place, pour your resin and your set. No need for an install kit.
ahhh yes !
questions:
would a center-stringer install for a small trailer require the to-the-deck H pattern holes?
if not going to drill holes to the deck skin, any reason not to skip the hole saw and use a 1 1/8 forstner bit to cut the hole?
thanks!
No H-pattern required as you’re tying to the stringer with your install. The forstner bit may be a bit hard to control cutting wood and foam at the same time, but if you’re careful, seems like it would work. Even if it wallows it out a bit, white pigment will make it so it doesn’t show too bad. A single hole saw and bit assembly is pretty cheap though.
You just need a short peace of standard 1 1/8th steel tube,fits in the Hole left by the holesaw and go in with your 1’’ Forstner, and no more moving around of the forstner while cleaning up the hole.
I think Bud was asking about using a Forstner bit only, as opposed to using a hole saw and the Forstner bit. But the conduit trick is a good one.