It seems to me like the flex in a perpendicular bamboo layup would rely on how flexible the glue joints are in the veneer, and how much compression the bamboo itself can handle in that orientation before splitting. When I hear about the ‘stiff’ ride from veneered decks, I’m wondering if it has to do with the builder not taking into consideration that resin saturated veneer is itself is really just a very thick lam layer. . .
Back to the layup - how about juxtaposed 45degree orientation on deck and bottom? Might help getting it around those compounds without splitting too.
I think the whole point, or one of the main points of using wood, is to get the spring/resilience/memory inherent to wood, that is mostly lacking in foams (think of the bow, as in bow and arrow). Everyone is trying to engineer flex/flex return into the board. Orienting the wood grain perpendicular would negate that. You would still have benefits of the compressive strength, though.
Stiffness will be caused by overbuilding and/or panel shape. I learned about how much panel shape effects flex when I did a compsand bonzer and was trying to build rocker back into the board when it flattened out in the vacuum bag. I couldn’t do it. Concave decks will add to flex. Concave on the bottom will stiffen up a board more than extra glass or stringers. Bert Burger taught us that when he told us to take a piece of paper and fold it into a concave and then try bending it. See what happens. It’s an enlightening excercise.
To pick your brains, if I may…
On a flat deck board say 2 1/4" thick, how close to the rails would you take the bamboo?
I’ve been running mine about 1-2" in from rail
On thin tails, I’ve found I need to bring the boo much closer to the rail in the tail area in future builds because I folded the rail in the last one (leash, I think) - My tail rails are only 1/4"-1/2" max, so there isn’t much rail to hold the tail.