Hey, if its fun or makes you feel funny to surf along with the thing flapping, who are any of us to criticise? Sometimes an extra sensory stimulus can be entertaining.
As for me, my first wetsuit was a flat-T shaped jacket with a beavertail from AMF/Voit. I don’t need to relive that experience, believe me.
I wear my beavertail because I want to be in the '60s with no crowd in Huntington, because I idolize Miki Dora and David Nuuhiwa, because I was born 20 years after the end of the ‘60s, and because I’m trying to escape to that time period in my head when I’m out in the water on my 9’ 6" log with a straight up single fin.
Bolsa:
At least your honest about it.
I wear my beavertail because I want to be in the '60s with no crowd in Huntington, because I idolize Miki Dora and David Nuuhiwa, because I was born 20 years after the end of the ‘60s, and because I’m trying to escape to that time period in my head when I’m out in the water on my 9’ 6" log with a straight up single fin.
nothing wrong with that! I too was born after the 60s,70s and 80s, but that doesn’t mean I can’t see what it could have been like.
Wetsuits though, I love the new ones, except every time I get one I friggen grow out of it, for now its a grey and red ripcurl 80s one. it does the job and is great with the air mattres.
Ahhhhh, to pine nostalgic: the quintessential Southern California longboard set up. late fall, oily morning glass, 3-4’ foot point ropers, a 9’6 Nuuhiwa Noserider with a volan lap and one drop tint, a pivot fin, a beavertail chasing you while you do a left-go-right then baby step it to the nose, however many it takes, your toes then wrapped around the nose. You knee paddle in. Your hot water in your gallon bottle now warm as you pour it over you: your makeshift shower, all in time to get a cup of coffee and a foil wrapped breakfast burrito just before you go check the used rack at the local surf shop.
Here in Hawaii, I miss certain things. Style and Mexican food are 2 good examples. I don’t miss wetsuits.
the short john is the one i like-very comfortable-more so than my o’neil.
I just got one of there longjohns, its comfortable,warm and perfect for days like today when the waters 59 and the airs 74, I am also bald and have been known to surf in a mullet wig, to help my style…
gnome—
i couldn’t agree more on not missing the wetsuit and missing the Mexican food… ckeck out the burrito truck that parks next the the McDonalds in Waimanalo, pretty good for hawaii standards…
jjp-
Mexican food in Waimanalo???
How’d you find that one? I’ll have to check it out on a Kona Day.
When I was going to school in SoCAL, it would always be Mexican food after surf:
Ventura Point: Joannafina’s, Corrales
North County SD: Pipe Cafe, Pizza Port, Robertos
Venice: El Terasco
Malibu: Malibu Inn
Oxnard: anywhere in Oxnard
…I could keep going on and on, but I’m sure CA Swaylockers know much better than me.
Funny thing, after surfing in Hawaii, my eating routine is much different.
early morning session: Town- I love Country Cafe
NS-Sunny Side Grill in Wahiawa, Koa Pancake House, Cafe Haleiwa
high noon: big bottle of water or powerade
evening: Diego’s, bowl of Pho.
…and you?