Am getting ready to start on a 9’6". In looking at Fiberglass Supply stock page, they offer Plain Weave and Flat Weave 8oz. Volan cloth. Any comments on which to use, maybe one drapes easier or wets out better? If I decide to do an opaque bottom color am I better off with “E” cloth or Volan with an opaque lamination. I believe it’s been mentioned that some types of cloth work better for opaque laminations. Thanks for any suggestions here. Tom
Am getting ready to start on a 9’6". In looking at Fiberglass Supply > stock page, they offer Plain Weave and Flat Weave 8oz. Volan cloth. Any > comments on which to use, maybe one drapes easier or wets out better? If I > decide to do an opaque bottom color am I better off with “E” > cloth or Volan with an opaque lamination. I believe it’s been mentioned > that some types of cloth work better for opaque laminations. Thanks for > any suggestions here.>>> Tom Tom, the flat weave “snots” out more while working, what I mean is that it loses strings along the cut edges more than a twist weave. Flat gives a drier lam, but twist is easier to keep air free, as its windows are more open.
Thank you Jim. I see the advantages of one over the other now. Any thoughts on which types of cloth , “E”, “S”, Volan or other wise a newbie might attempt an opaque job with? I thought I was once cautioned about opaque lams with one or the other types. Tom>>> Tom, the flat weave “snots” out more while working, what I mean > is that it loses strings along the cut edges more than a twist weave. Flat > gives a drier lam, but twist is easier to keep air free, as its windows > are more open.
hi Tom, i did an opaque colored bottom with 7.5 oz last summer…but honestly, i didn’t even ask if it was volan or not, i just needed the extra width afforded by the 7.5 roll…if this is your first opaque side (as mine was), and if i could give you one tip, i would say to save about 4 to 6 ounces of your colored batch of resin in case you need to do some touch-up after you lam the bottom and laps. after all, it is opaque. good luck, i’m looking forward to seeing it when you finish. ramon>>> Thank you Jim. I see the advantages of one over the other now. Any > thoughts on which types of cloth , “E”, “S”, Volan or > other wise a newbie might attempt an opaque job with? I thought I was once > cautioned about opaque lams with one or the other types.>>> Tom
Thanks Ramon. I’ve not done a full side with opaque color yet so I need all the help I can get. Did you have any problems with streaking or an uneven color saturation in the cloth you used? That is what I was concerned with. I realize it’s on my shoulders to mix thoroughly etc., been there with the flecks and streaks on tints. Meant to tell you that those last 2 boards looked good, mano! Tom>>> hi Tom, i did an opaque colored bottom with 7.5 oz last summer…but > honestly, i didn’t even ask if it was volan or not, i just needed the > extra width afforded by the 7.5 roll…if this is your first opaque side > (as mine was), and if i could give you one tip, i would say to save about > 4 to 6 ounces of your colored batch of resin in case you need to do some > touch-up after you lam the bottom and laps. after all, it is opaque. good > luck, i’m looking forward to seeing it when you finish. ramon
Tom, take this with a grain of salt, because all i really am is a one timer with the pigments. i stirred and strained like the devil to avoid the kind of color streaking you get if you happen to hit an unmixed fragment or pocket of pigment (especially white) when you are squeegieing. a more relevant problem in my case was getting the kind of streak you get with uneven resin distribution. i was trying to manage a lap of about 2.75" on a wide, round nosed egg. being a novice, i was real tense and worried about gel-time and getting the neatest rail-wrap i could. the bottom came out fine because i focused on having a relaxed and evenly soft stroke with the squeegee, but doing the laps was another story. i just wanted everything down nice and flat before gel, to make matters worse, my shaping stand doubles as the glassing stand. it is really too low to get the best view of what i’m doing (i can hear those “DUHHs!!”). as a result, everything was nice and flat, but i did have this uneven distribution, and just a shade of dryness on the surface of the cloth in scattered areas. that’s where having some touch up resin saved me. lessons learned: 1)be as confident as possible about your mix, and expected time to gel. this will help with 2)use an even and relaxed stroke, we’re not shooting for a lightweight here. 3)a sufficiently high glassing stand makes a huge difference. 4)save some touch up from the original batch. i swear i was so tense doing the laps that my quads were sore the next day. i know you’re going to do a kick-ass job!>>> Thanks Ramon. I’ve not done a full side with opaque color yet so I need > all the help I can get. Did you have any problems with streaking or an > uneven color saturation in the cloth you used? That is what I was > concerned with. I realize it’s on my shoulders to mix thoroughly etc., > been there with the flecks and streaks on tints. Meant to tell you that > those last 2 boards looked good, mano!>>> Tom
granted i’ve only done 4 or 5 jobs with pigments, but ive never strained any of my colored resin and ive never had any streaks or anything like that. so it is possible, you just have to mix like a mofo. steve
Ramon- I had to smile when you described your anticipation while doing that great looking egg you did. I know what you went through 'cause I’ve been through it too. My shaping/glassing rack racked my back so badly that I added an upright 2x4 with a 1x4 slat across the top covered in foam and lots of masking tape. The 2x4 is screwed into the vertical 4x4 uprights with long sheetrock screws that can come off at any time with a quick blast from the screwgun tip. 'mo betta now. Thanks for the details and insight. Tom>>> Tom, take this with a grain of salt, because all i really am is a one > timer with the pigments. i stirred and strained like the devil to avoid > the kind of color streaking you get if you happen to hit an unmixed > fragment or pocket of pigment (especially white) when you are squeegieing. > a more relevant problem in my case was getting the kind of streak you get > with uneven resin distribution. i was trying to manage a lap of about > 2.75" on a wide, round nosed egg. being a novice, i was real tense > and worried about gel-time and getting the neatest rail-wrap i could. the > bottom came out fine because i focused on having a relaxed and evenly soft > stroke with the squeegee, but doing the laps was another story. i just > wanted everything down nice and flat before gel, to make matters worse, my > shaping stand doubles as the glassing stand. it is really too low to get > the best view of what i’m doing (i can hear those “DUHHs!!”). as > a result, everything was nice and flat, but i did have this uneven > distribution, and just a shade of dryness on the surface of the cloth in > scattered areas. that’s where having some touch up resin saved me. lessons > learned: 1)be as confident as possible about your mix, and expected time > to gel. this will help with 2)use an even and relaxed stroke, we’re not > shooting for a lightweight here. 3)a sufficiently high glassing stand > makes a huge difference. 4)save some touch up from the original batch. i > swear i was so tense doing the laps that my quads were sore the next day. > i know you’re going to do a kick-ass job!
T. If you’re worried…remember that “E” cloth is way cheaper than Volan so if you do screw up…you’ll be out less $$ and it is quite a bit easier to cut. Mix your colour pretty strong and remember to use a bit more catalyst because the resin will take longer to “Go off” with pigment in it. (Unless it’s something like light coke bottle or yellow)