I was just at Mitch’s checking out the Tudor boards, and I swear, just like on my Cooperfish, you can SEE the weave on all those boards, and I don’t mean just little bits, just in the right light, I mean the weave (especially the laps) looks like it was pulled so much and so tight, that it is pulling apart. The boards were all colored, and the weave at the laps looked like it had about 1/32" gaps between every thread…It’s insane. THAT’S what I want. How? The last three boards I’ve done have been with 7.5oz. Volan to try and get that look, but it didn’t work. Just looks like regular old 6oz. Do you really need to pull alot of resin out of it during the lam? Am I maybe not sanding the hotcoat enough? Does it have to be heavier (10oz.) volan? I have no idea why I can’t get that look, but I need to. Couldn’t walk in there without buying a blank either…that place kills me. Thanks for any input.
Hey tenover,
Do you think the glass could be twist weave instead of flat weave? We used twist weave way back when. It had that look. It was thicker and took a little more resin (so a little heavier), but it was also more resistant to pressure dents.
Just a thought,
Gene
10 oz volan, just one layer. Then in a separate lam, lay up a 4 oz layer that will come out clear and make the weave of the 10 oz jump at you like crazy. The weave on the 4 oz is also tight enough that you then use less resin in your hotcoat. Then gloss & polish. That’s how you get the visible weave and the appearance of depth.
*As explained by Gene C on longboard.net a few months ago…
So lam the whole board as normal, let cure compltetley and then “wrap” it all in another layer of 4oz. after?
Exactly.
Howzit tenover, Were those boards glossed and polished, if so heating up the board during the polishing step will cause the weave texture to appear. I personally think it ruins the look of a nice gloss job but as usual polishers are paid by the board so they will rush to do as many as possible. Aloha,Kokua
Yeah kokua, they were all glossed and polished (I’m assuming you’re talking about the Tudors I saw in the shop?)…To each his own I guess, I think seeing the weave like that is awesome. Thanks for the tip.
hi tenover, all the boards you saw are twist weave like your using, thats the standard 7.5 volan.
if you use a solid opaque color like your mustard board you’ll see the weave defined. i believe your talking about weave definition and not a crappy polish job. some colors tend to show the definition better than others. tints and clears don’t have that effect.
Thanks Gene, I really appreciate your input. I’m about to lam another board with 7.5oz. Volan…I’ll try the 4oz. tip plus a good opaque job…
PS- Nice call on my board!
that 4oz trick won’t enhance the the weave definition. that’s just for added strength.
Gene…I really like your work.Are your pinlines resin or acrylic?Also do you know what happened to a glosser-pinline artist named Brummett?He did the insane resin work on Surfboards Hawaii’s in the late 1960’s. rb
Howzit Mr. Clean, Would you be referring to Gary Brummett? Seems I remember hearing something about him a few years back. Aloha,Kokua
Sorry to hijack the thread (volan) but I think there were two brothers named Brummet??One of them built boards down in Solana Beach and I shaped a bunch of twin fins for him.The guy I am curious about was the master glosser that did the resin “fish” abstracts on Surfboard Hawai boards.I may have it all wrong though.I thought Gene may know whom I speak of. RB
hi roger, i can’t help you there. my surfboard work in the late sixties was limited to hacking up perfectly good longboards into shortboards in my backyard. i didn’t work in a factory till '74 and even then it was on a limited basis. sounds like the info on the guy is trickling in though.
hey tenover,
sounds like you might not be pulling enough resin out? Some colors really pop with that weave(especially dark blue) and then some just dont have that weave look.
Austin S.