Like any engineering material issue, whether to use epoxy or poly depends on the application and the processcapability. Application means how you’re intending to use the finished item, and the probability of success (as measured in the lab) or past field history gives you that data. For surfboard applications the success rate for poly/poly is very high as compared to XPS/epoxy for example. Process capability is what seems to be the issue in this thread. A capable process is technically defined as one that produces 99.73% of the correct product all the time. Obviously this requires very controlled conditions such as a defined procedure, skilled workers or precise automation, non-varying materials, etc. This is not to say that one guy in the same shed with the same temperature and applying the same tools/materials and skill level/procedure to each glass job cannot have a capable process; but it does require consistency and discipline. This may all sound like production-line BS to some, but understand that all of those Asian factories producing boards use this process capability metric; crap or not, they still have consistent results which is what we all want. Details such as the foam du jour, sealing, paint, and so on must be pre-qualified as “capable” or the glassing process is really not in control. Additional processes can be used to reduce variation: Vacuum bagging removes the variability of squeegee pressure and thus gives more consistent results. Measuring by weight is much more accurate than by volume. Post-cure ovens reduce variability of final curing times. A space heater reduces variability of ambient temperature. Working with epoxy requires more than just glassing skills, but control of many process factors to make a successful product. Working with poly resin doesn’t have as many details, but requires experience and timing since every batch itself has variability. Bottom line is you should use the resin which your skill, tools/equipment, and shop are capable of; there is no right or wrong material but the application and process certainly can be. Epoxy is indeed easier to work with since the cure window is so big. However if you don’t heed the “watch-outs” working with it you wind up with a board that was easy to make but a POS in the end. Poly yields consistent end results, but is harder to get right in the short cure time (as we see in the numerous HELP posts each week).
Resin…equal problems …poly or epoxy…clean hands, clean shop, follow the rules…Same goes for painting cars or making airplane parts…it’s ok to hate epoxy resin , it’s ok to hate poly resin…work it out.
Speaking of price, I have a choice to buy a 1500watt sander or a 1200watt that costs $20 less cos it’s on special. For my first and probably only glassing job for a long time. Would a 1200w sander do the job?
If you are a meticulous sort of person and have a very clean and controlled place to glass then you will likely be successful with epoxy. If you aren’t a meticulous person and/or don’t have a clean controlled place to work you will likely be starting a horror story thread wondering what went wrong.
The only advantage I can see in using poly resin is the quick flip-times . Anyone who builds large numbers only will appreciate that - it will still lack durability compared to the modern high performance epoxy…the need to use an oven was surpassed years ago and the final polish on epoxy is equal to anything these days .
I am not a production builder, just a backyarder who builds an occasional board. I have always done all my sanding by hand. It wouldn’t make any sense for a production guy, but works just fine for me. I have a plethora of sanders, being a contractor, but enjoy hand sanding my boards.
If I can use in epoxy in wet cold Northern England, anyone can use it. Aim for 18degC plus. Dont use it in a wet shed. Use digi scales. Dont mix it with your hotdog.
Oven, if you really must for fully cured performance right out of the garage. Heater = hair drier. Digi thermometer to keep an eye on things. A bit of Thermowrap that was spare form lining the garage.
I have hot coated both sides of a board today and it has only been 1.5 hrs. Resin Research Quick Kick. I don’t know what the doubters are using, but I bet it was from 1980, like West Systems. Surfboard specific epoxy is good, fast and sands like butter.
Resinhead, same here. I laminated the little asymm on the other thread in one day. it was 87 degrees in my garage. Like you, I did both sides fill/hot coat in less than 2 hours. If you have a big board and are afraid the temperature will get you, just lam one half of the board with one bucket, then lam the other half.
…burning down the house sounds good in a dance song…
My friend had his home made post cure hot box catch on fire…surfboard and hotbox total loss…$650,000 house intact …homes are very expensive here…sometimes passed down from generation to generation…
Cardboard + heat = fire…thank God my friend was standing there when the whole thing went wrong…saved the house. not the board…