I was telling a future maker of hollow concrete boards a few minutes ago …
…managed three nice righthanders in a window period of glassiness between fast-moving fronts [a feature of this coast at this time of year , it seems lately].
I’m sure you south-facing viccos can relate too.
Sometimes the weather eye takes over from ‘surf cams’ and ‘telephone surf reports’ , and you can get lucky .
But , sure enough …by 8.30am , the rips , onshore , and seaweed had conspired to send me packing .
The funny thing was , when I checked it at 5.30am , it was onshore and tiny .
7am , at least today , turned out to be the time to hit it .
ben
…I’d be interested to hear other’s experiences of the early …is it morning sicknessy , or is it usually better for you then ? [no …wheelsy , I’m talking about the early SURF , you [fellow] deviant …]