Hey Mike! just curious, how did the weekend campout/trip south go?Any trouble finding a spot to crash?Get any surf?(in fact, did anybody get any surf this weekend? awfully flat and ugly in my area)
We had a little surf in Santa Cruz,38th was fun 'cept the fight between the wave hogs and all the sideways beginners on Doyles(bigger targets)on the inside.That tall skinny goofy foot kid with braces was on alot of goodys,Hanging 5 or 10 on each one.
We had a little surf in Santa Cruz,38th was fun 'cept the fight between > the wave hogs and all the sideways beginners on Doyles(bigger targets)on > the inside.That tall skinny goofy foot kid with braces was on alot of > goodys,Hanging 5 or 10 on each one. Surfed some shoulder high lefts out at Ala Moana on Friday. A bit of morning sickness, but cleaned up when the trades started blowin. A friend of mine tried out a board I shaped for him (he waited a year to get it). He seemed to like it, an 8ft. hybrid shape, so I was stoked.
Surfed some shoulder high lefts out at Ala Moana on Friday. A bit of > morning sickness, but cleaned up when the trades started blowin. A friend > of mine tried out a board I shaped for him (he waited a year to get it). > He seemed to like it, an 8ft. hybrid shape, so I was stoked. How was the crowd factor? Last time I was there it was pretty crowded so I surfed the next break over (inbetweens?)and had a great time. Shallow paddle out, though. I will be on Oahu later this week, hope the swell picks up. It’s been terrible here in SoCal for a while now…
How was the crowd factor? Last time I was there it was pretty crowded so I > surfed the next break over (inbetweens?)and had a great time. Shallow > paddle out, though. I will be on Oahu later this week, hope the swell > picks up. It’s been terrible here in SoCal for a while now… I guess I’ve earned a spot in the pecking order where I can sneak into a set wave here and there out at Ala Moana. Although it has a reputation for having a heavy vibe, the dawn patrol crowd is fairly mellow. The spot next to Ala Mo is called Rockpiles and then In Betweens then Kaiser’s. If youre in staying in Waikiki, you can sometimes catch No. Three’s fairly uncrowded during the midday. They’re calling for a swell tommorrow, but who knows, its been really hit and miss this summer. My email is , drop me a line, maybe we can get a sesh in together or something. FD
I guess I’ve earned a spot in the pecking order where I can sneak into a > set wave here and there out at Ala Moana. Although it has a reputation for > having a heavy vibe, the dawn patrol crowd is fairly mellow. The spot next > to Ala Mo is called Rockpiles and then In Betweens then Kaiser’s. If youre > in staying in Waikiki, you can sometimes catch No. Three’s fairly > uncrowded during the midday. They’re calling for a swell tommorrow, but > who knows, its been really hit and miss this summer. My email is > , drop me a line, maybe we can get a sesh in together > or something.>>> FD Hey Foamy we used to call Kaisers “Da Bowl” back in the sixties…legend had it that it was a sunken barge with coral growth…there was an ass busting little pipe or piling that they called “Herman” that stuck up and you could use it as a lineup.Barry K. and a guy named Lonnie Keoho were the masters.We used to paddle out from the army base called Fort Derussy.Is it still there?Is it still a hollow suck out left after thirty years?Long live Radford High School.By the way Jim Phillips ripped it pretty good back then…he was one of the few Haole boys that could get a wave.Mahalo
Hey Foamy we used to call Kaisers “Da Bowl” back in the > sixties…legend had it that it was a sunken barge with coral > growth…there was an ass busting little pipe or piling that they called > “Herman” that stuck up and you could use it as a lineup.Barry K. > and a guy named Lonnie Keoho were the masters.We used to paddle out from > the army base called Fort Derussy.Is it still there?Is it still a hollow > suck out left after thirty years?Long live Radford High School.By the way > Jim Phillips ripped it pretty good back then…he was one of the few Haole > boys that could get a wave.Mahalo Hey clean, The pipe aint there anymore, although the left and the right still suck out. I don’t usually surf Kaisers, but its still a great wave. The faces have changed but the wave remains the same. Funny my g/f went to Radford High in the 70’s hehe…
Hey clean,>>> The pipe aint there anymore, although the left and the right still suck > out. I don’t usually surf Kaisers, but its still a great wave. The faces > have changed but the wave remains the same. Funny my g/f went to Radford > High in the 70’s hehe… Thanks Foamy…glad to hear that Kaisers is still cranking…after thirty years of erosion I guess it has changed.Hey what about Fort Derussy?It was about the last green space on Waikiki…is it gone?I used to surf Ala Mo…we turned our boards over to paddle out over the inside reef.I hear that you can still score good uncrowded waves in town if you want to get up early.Catch one for me Bro.Mahalo
Thanks Foamy…glad to hear that Kaisers is still cranking…after thirty > years of erosion I guess it has changed.Hey what about Fort Derussy?It was > about the last green space on Waikiki…is it gone?I used to surf Ala > Mo…we turned our boards over to paddle out over the inside reef.I hear > that you can still score good uncrowded waves in town if you want to get > up early.Catch one for me Bro.Mahalo Clean…Think youll be glad to hear that Ft. De Russy is still green. Theres a nice park area there along with a military hotel, Hale Koa, for about a quarter mile stretch. I usually park at DeRussy to surf Three’s. Yeah you can sometimes score uncrowded dawn patrols, but it seems like its less crowded when the morning crowd heads off for work around 9:00am. Will definitely catch one for u…Aloha ps- where do u live now? FD
Clean…Think youll be glad to hear that Ft. De Russy is still green. > Theres a nice park area there along with a military hotel, Hale Koa, for > about a quarter mile stretch. I usually park at DeRussy to surf Three’s. > Yeah you can sometimes score uncrowded dawn patrols, but it seems like its > less crowded when the morning crowd heads off for work around 9:00am. Will > definitely catch one for u…Aloha>>> ps- where do u live now?>>> FD Thanks for the update Foamy.I now live on the coast of Georgia and the waves are next to nothing.I get my thrills from building boards for a hobby.I am glad to hear that Fort Derussy is still intact…the Govt. did right by preserving it…hell we could probably pay off the national debt by selling that little section of the South Shore.I first got in the water at Kuhio on a paipo board…from there I started board surfing at Barbers Point,Sand Island,Queen surf…etc.Kaisers and Ala Mo were my favorites but the crowds were awesome even back in 1964.That stretch of beach that compromises “Town” is probably the best basic surf spot in the world.Wish I was there…Mahalo.
Thanks for the update Foamy.I now live on the coast of Georgia and the > waves are next to nothing.I get my thrills from building boards for a > hobby.I am glad to hear that Fort Derussy is still intact…the Govt. did > right by preserving it…hell we could probably pay off the national debt > by selling that little section of the South Shore.I first got in the water > at Kuhio on a paipo board…from there I started board surfing at Barbers > Point,Sand Island,Queen surf…etc.Kaisers and Ala Mo were my favorites but > the crowds were awesome even back in 1964.That stretch of beach that > compromises “Town” is probably the best basic surf spot in the > world.Wish I was there…Mahalo. Hope you can somehow make it back here some day dude. Wish I could have been there back in '64, I started a few years later in '67. Spent my grommet years in Ewa Beach. Surfing town back then was a big deal until my buddy Jim got a car and started going all over, Town, Haleiwa, Chun’s, etc. I try not to take this place for granted no matter how screwed up everyone says its gotten. Its still a pretty good place to live and surf…Aloha