hi Rachel,
look at this;
Hey sirwanksalot
Nice stick you’ve got there. Though that kind of weirds me out, given your profile name. That said, could you pass on the dimensions for that Mike Casey LB gun? Not a lot I don’t like about it. Thanks. Eric
Rachel,
Go to:
Look under Mckee Multisystem for longboard quads with center box.
He seems to have the layout down and gives you all pertinent measurements. Also look for the download pdf files on dims as well as the site pages.
Also, my 2 cents, at 21.5 wide, I’d think about pulling the nose in a bit (15"?) to keep a nice flowing curve in the outline.
That from someone who was a fan of the Rusty Desert Island with a 12.5 " nose…
Pete
I’m a slow typer, Surf4fins beat me to it…
Rachel,
It sounds like your guy likes to turn off the tail. 3 things to look at in that case. Swing weight, trying to keep the board weight down in general is a good call, but especially forward of the front foot. Template, look into the Velzy “Pig” style outline. The design theory behind shifting the widepoint back, especially on performance longboards is still very applicable today. Rocker, 5" N, 2" T is for trimmers. Think about something in the 5" N, 4" T range. -Carl
Here’s my current outline and rocker.
I checked the McKee quad, and I like the placement he gives, so I think I’m going to go with that. They suggest FCS, any changes with ProBox? Fins-wise?
I used pro box and had no problems. Used the dims given by the McKee site.
Rachel, listen to Carl Olsen’s voice of wisdom and move this wide point back…
On second thought, 5" of nose rocker and 2" tail rocker is not that weird. We use to use the clark 9’2"R blanks to make high performance longboard blanks. The rocker profiles are still on the www.clarkfoam.com website. I think I have a picture of a board I made with that blank. I’ll post it when I find it.
D
The 9’2"R was one of my favorite blanks. This is my version of a longboard gun out of the 9’2"R
Thanks for the dims.
I like the wide point back and narrow on the nose for low swing weight, too. My first longboard ever was like that and it was a good transition to longboards from shortboards - meaning, i rode it off the tail. These days even my “noserider” is narrow in the nose, it’s just thick (9’5" x 16 5/8 x 22 1/2 x 15 1/2 x 3 1/16).
hi rach
you mentioned 9’ ,
so that it’s “competition legal”
does the guy compete regularly , then ?
if not ,
would you consider making it an 8’er , instead ?
cheers
ben
p.s. -
my 9’er [x 21 1/2 x 2 1/2 [!!] snapped in half after a couple of months …
I’m not really a fan of the outline of the Velzy pig boards. I understand the concept and that it works, but I always thought they were ugly. No offense of course.
Whenever I try to move the widepoint back I end up with a very wide tail, which I’m not a fan of. I’ve been able to get the WP to center and I still like the outline. Is that far enough back?
Ben,
He competes often enough for it to be a consideration. Our university holds a couple contests a year and our surf team travels a bunch, so being competition legal is important. Also he just likes longboards. Can’t say I complain I still can’t believe your mal snapped.
I’m planning on making this one out of EPS/epoxy now, once I told him it would be cheaper and they make epoxy suncure. I’m going to get a big block of EPS so I can make a bunch of boards, and probably glue up a 3/8" basswood stringer in this one.
cheers rarararaaaaach !!!
personally ['IF i ever make another] , i’d make my next mal 3" thick . But then again , i don’t use eps foam , so i’m not really up on the thick/thinnesses you can get away with using that stuff ?
btw, i used epoxy resin on my polyurethane blank , for my 9’er
[next time , polyester , as i know it better , and prefer the quicker gel times ]
my mal has ‘blush’ [i think you call it?] marks everywhere now , a year or more on from when i made it …
… SUNCURE epoxy , eh ?
THAT sounds great !!
is it available in Australia , i wonder ??
cheers
ben
…please post photos of your boards progress for us eh Rach ? thanks !
Well, I had fun trying…
Hey Rachel check out the Anderson Flowmaster at http://www.andersonsurfboards.com
Was just surfing their shapes and saw it
What did you figure out?
Janklow, just browsed the Anderson site. I think their Flowmaster longboard is probably the closest to what I’m thinking about shaping. It has a really narrow pin, which is what I’m looking for. Definitely thinking about basing the design on that.
Anyone have recommendations on bottom contours for a longboard with a 4+1 setup? I usually shape my longboards with either a flat bottom or a slight belly since they’re single fins for small waves. This is a whole different beast.
Hey Rachel,
Bigger waves on bigger boards is all about controlling speed. I’d go with a panel Vee with the apex just before the center fin–ordinarily, I would move this apex forward for bigger waves, but if this guy is planted on the tail, this could help. Vee also helps the quad setup move from rail to rail easier. Concave through the Vee keep the water flow clean through the back third of the board.
Post pics when you’re done!
Jamie
I dont really come into the cyberworld of swaylocks much anymore but this thread requires attention.
i dont want to be a downer but longboard guns are not a path worth venturing down in waves below 6’.
and MOST IMPORTANTLY
be aware that
Besides the point.
when a board reaches 9’ you can throw around a 18" nose as well as a 16" nose anyway. plus you’ll have a nicer looking board and a fun noserider in a wider variety of waves.
thickness wise is the same too. you can afford to go thicker I’d suggest 2 5/8" with a good FOIL and thin rails.
put enough rocker in the nose too so you dont have a pearler.
And unless you know what your doing with quads dont.
i’d suggest either a 6.5" centre fin with 3.5" sides or a 10" dolphin single fin.
some basic dims
9’ whatever x 22" x 2 5/8"
18"n
13 1/2" round pin tail
BOTTOM CONTOURS.
Single concave under the nose to a flat belly then a double concave or vee through the tail.
…
last post as “josh”.