Austin-
Send it via email to me at :
I will then post a link to it for you…
Quote:
Well i tried to post it here but it exceeded the maximum kb’s for posting. Austin S.
tenover offered to post it on his site. Might want to send him a PM and work it out.
C’mon Austin buddy…Don’t leave us hangin’!
Howzit Keith, I wet out the whole rail, After I lay down the bead I make 1 pass with the squeegee from the tail or nose, depending on which side of the board and that way they’re nice and saturated. after I do the flats I pour a smaller bead just for a little extra just before I wrap.You will have to figure out just how much resin is for the bead but it’s easy.A little tip about those strings, before you start to laminate try pulling off the shortest string ( which you hope is basically ai the center of the rail). With 4oz glass you can pull the 2 shortest strings. This is one of the best things about Swaylocks is we can share our little trade tips and tricks. Aloha, Kokua
check the link to the video in the general discussion forum. Austin S.
I’ve heard of doing the laps with a small roller. I have yet to try it, but is sounds like a good idea.
Cool, thanks. You make that look waaaaay too easy. Just so we can keep all this info in one “place”, here’s the link again.
[=1][ 2]http://members.cox.net/tsaunders34/austinsurfboards.avi
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Another question- I’ve worked in biotech labs for the past 5 or 6 years and have a few boxes of the heavy latex gloves they use in the labs…These would be fine to wear during the glassing process, right? I just don’t want to find out the hard way that latex gloves bond permanently to your skin when hit with resin or something…I’ve also bee able to aquire some great 1 gallon containers to store tinited resin and whatever else I might have. Oh, and syringes…yes, lots of tiny syringes for catalyst!
thanks Austin and Tenover…
that is the first time I have seen glassing done and you make it look way easier than I was imagining it.
great to see
thanks
–4est
Ahh so that how its done!! You wouldn’t happen to have a clip of folding the laps would you. I saw you had quite a bit of resin there was this for 2 boards or just one.
Cheers
Just a personal preference tenover…
I find the syringes annoying, too much hassle. A lot of them will melt from the MEKP also. The little cups are easier (I think anyway), and cheaper. I’m sure Bodi bottles are great, but I don’t glass enough to warrant using one.
melville: brevard county florida, the space(d) coast. surfed head high or a little better waves at the cocoa beach pier 5 hrs this morning. beautiful spring day here. air temp maybe 75, water temp maybe 68.
Melville Sound: 250 mi (402 km) long and 100 mi (161 km) wide, arm of the Arctic Ocean, Northwest Territories and Nunavut, Canada, between Victoria and Prince of Wales islands on the south and Melville and Bathurst islands on the north. It is a section of the Northwest Passage… A crossroads of arctic waterways, it is navigable only under favorable weather conditions.
Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, Copyright (c) 2004. (No mention of best breaks, anybody know this spot?)
Thought about it, but did NOT surf there this morning. Couldn’t find my dry suit.
Howzit Austin, Got a tip for you, try cutting 1 inch off the top of your squegee, it makes a big difference for flexibility and then you can wrap the rail in 1 swipe, just a old timers tip. Aloha, Kokua
Buy a catalyst dispenser bottle. Forget the measuring cups, syringes, etc. If you glass even one board it’s worth it. $4.69 from fiberglass supply.com
Keith- Is that one of them fancy shmancy bottles with the shot glass on top like you have? Nah…I just measure by counting the drips…
Just kidding. I am definitely getting one of those. I’m picking up two checks tonight for some computer tech. work I did for people and will be buying all the supplies tomorrow.
Yabbut don’t use it for measuring tequila! (not big enough, for one thing.)
Hey tenover,
Back in the late 60’s and early 70’s I not only shaped a couple of thousand boards, I also glassed and glossed several hundred, so I have some experience with the problem of wetting the rail lap. IMHO, I think the ‘flip up’ method gives the most consistently predictable results. I know you’re going over to watch Keith do a lay-up (there’s nothing like actually seeing it done) but I thought a little of what I remember might help you with what you will be seeing. A couple of things to keep in mind – glass that is wet and glass that is saturated are different. Wet glass is just covered with resin and the fabric retains some of its stiffness (which is what you want in some situations). Saturated glass has all of the tiny fibers that make up the strands that you see in the weave encapsulated with resin and the fabric is quite limp (which is what you want in other situations). The idea is to get all of the glass wet as quickly as possible so you can get on with the saturation process while racing the gel clock. With your glass laid out and the rail length cut smoothly, pour about 1/3 of the resin down the middle and with a low squeegee angle and not much pressure quickly move it outward, working it from end to end, until the puddle is nearly to the rail. Do the same on the other side with another 1/3 of the resin. Now, starting in the middle and moving first to one end and then the other, using your squeegee and your other hand, fold the rail glass up onto the bottom (or deck depending on which side your glassing) in a smooth, continuous motion so that the bottom of the fold is about half way down the rail. It should now be laying in the puddle. Pour a little more resin from end to end on top of the folded glass and, starting in the middle and working to one end and then the other in one motion, use your squeegee with low angle and light pressure (bending it to conform to the curve) to quickly wet the glass. As soon as it’s wet, start at the middle by lifting the edge of the rail lap with your hand, slip the squeegee underneath and with both the squeegee and your free hand, in one continuous motion, unfold the rail lap. Because it is only wet at this point, it should still be stiff enough to peel off the deck and fold back down like a wave peeling off down the beach. No wrinkles and no strings. If, when you try to fold it back down, the glass is limp, you either didn’t do it fast enough or you used too much pressure. Make any necessary adjustments to your technique when you do the other side. Now you’re ready to saturate and finish by stretching and drying out your laminate and wrapping your rails underneath. I know you must think I’m some kinda nut for writing such a long, detailed description of this process, and your right I guess I am, it’s just that as in many situations the things that are important are not readily apparent. I remember hearing a martial arts master say, when a student asked if he could watch so he could learn his technique, that you can only see the process. You cannot see the technique. In wetting the rails the difference between glass that is just wet and glass that is saturated is very important. One more thing and then I’ll shut up. Don’t consider the resin that ends up on the floor around your drip edge as wasted. Think of it as part of your board – the part that allowed you to do that smooth, tight, dry, totally saturated, well adhered, air free and transparent laminate. The most common mistake beginning glassers make is not shooting enough resin. Just because you can’t see it, you don’t feel that the emotional and spiritual energy that you put into your board is wasted do you? I know – enough, enough…
See ya
Gene-
Thank you very much for the description…First, I definitley am NOT worried about wasting any resin…Heck, I’ll use a whole gallon on a board if that’s what it takes for me to get a good bond. I’m torn between doing the rail flip up/flip down method or not. Seems like one more step that I could really screw up, but then again it seems like it’s a good way to get the entire lap saturated. I can’t wait to watch Keith glass a board, but I’ll be glassing my first board (A little 5’0" for my daughter…yes, it’ll be pink) this weekend. Not only will it be a present for her birthday, but it’s also going to give me a chance to try everything before I go all-out on my real boards…Not that I don’t care about this one, but I mean c’mon…Is my 5 year old daughter really going to notice that sanding scratch or the off-color tint job? Well then again, she could be my toughest critic! Once again, thanks Gene, your knowledge and experience much appreciated!
-Scott
Gene:
Great job describing your technique! I’m certain this one will be printed and archived by many who are interested in the art of glassing. You summarized in a couple of paragraphs what may have taken many of us 3-5 boards to catch on to (not including the countless headaches and hours of sanding!) The beauty of this forum is to share ideas and methods that each of us can distill and modify to suit our needs, always another way to approach the problem. Good on you for sharing your time.
Tom S.