Why is the glass visable?
light reflection
hot coat will smooth it out
Hot coat it.
Looks like a redwood stringer on an old board. What’s the rest of the board look like?
First of all, I need to tell you that’s a bad repair to begin with. You need to sand down the gloss/sanding coat to glass before you start with the fill. The sanded area should be about the same area as your patch. Do you see the checks in the sanding coat? That means you have a bad sanding coat to begin with. (Its an old board so don’t be too concerned) Any repair will show up so you want to match everything as best as possible.
Second, your fill is too light. Next time (if you don’t want to dig out this one and start over) do a better test mix to match the color of the old foam. The pic below is what I use. It only takes a tiny bit of pigment to match. There is another repair to the far right on the rail that has been finished off, including a pin line. You can see where I have dug out all the old contaminated foam & broken fiberglass and will then fill that spot with a matching filler. What you use as filler can change the color so a test is the only way to know how much to use for that board.
Third, this is an old board, maybe a pop-out and uses heavy glass. Two layers of 4 oz will give strength and fill below the level so your hot coat will come up to level. It looks like you didn’t use enough resin or the cracks wicked resin away from the cloth. Hot coating this mess will not solve your problem as it will be above the level of the rest of the glass job. If you start over, you will learn how to do it right and build your skills at ding repair, something all surfers should know how to do.
surfteach, nice post, great information and pointers. What is in the big container in your picture?
Are you talking about the repair parallel to the Greek lam?
If that has been repaired, I think it needs a re-do.
Dry lam. Unless, you sanded it already. Then I’d say you got too ambitious with that step.
Sorry, didn't turn it so you could read it. Its cabosil. Cabosil gives
a different white than micro-balloons so you need to adjust your pigment
if that's what you use. I use bamboo barbie stakes for stirring rods and pigment
mixers when doing ding repair as I can more accurately judge how much I am
putting in. Pigment is so thick that you can't get it to do drops evenly. The repair
board is an old single fin with lots of bad repairs and damage. The owner wants
it to be a ridable board, not a wall hanger so there is a lot I am leaving alone. Major
nose & tail resto was needed. Pardon the flash!! LOL
No Sammy, that is one I am leaving alone as it is water tight. There are three rail dings, all in various states of repair. The one on the far left was a indent and delam. The fracture went into the blue pin line which I re-did after the repair. The middle one is in progress, with the main area filled & glassed. The second area has been cleaned out and is waiting for fill. The third is to the left in the picture. It has been sanded down, cleaned out & filled. It will be sanded, lamed & hot coated along with the middle one. This board had 13 rail dings & delams. The owner had it in his kitchen, hanging from the ceiling so it got really greasy & I suspect the brown trails in the dings are grease that wicked up into the foam as the board dried out! Still, its good money, so I will soldier on! Have you posted up any of your ding repairs? BKB
Thanks for the replies. I don’t really care about matching the color of the filler. I just put some coffee on the q-cell after I sanded it to knock off some of the bright white color. Its a 9’6" hobie that I want to get water tight to ride. It doesnt have to be perfect but I really didnt want the cloth to be visable in the repairs. I saturated the cloth thoroughly, maybe too much? I poured some extra resin over it after I was done brushing it. What happens when you oversaturate? The idea that maybe the deep cracks in the old glass wicked the resin away from the cloth sounds possible. The cloth was completely invisable until after it cured.
Red;
I don’t know what kind of resin you used, so a couple of things could have happened. If you poured too much resin and the mix was cold, the cloth could have floated up in those areas. If you used a sanding resin, the movement of the wax to the surface can interfere with the resin bonding to the cloth. It is always best to use lam resin even for ding repairs when laying down cloth. Sand down what you have and recoat it with sanding resin and it will be water tight. Pull your tape just as it jells and you will have a smooth edge and can just surf it like that. The cracks like I said could have wicked away some styrene also, but can’t say that for sure without actually seeing the board. Good luck on the other repairs!
Yeah, I used sanding resin and there was definetly enough resin for the cloth to float up as it cured. I think thats it. Too much of the wrong kind of resin. Thanks.