At this point I am more depressed than I have ever been in my whole life. And i have had to suffer from actual clinical depression much of the time since early adolescence. I am referring to the oil spill. I naively and wrongly assumed most of my 27 years that I could just use and use and everyone else had to adapt and be green and change, blah blah blah. Never thought it would hit quite so directly in my heart. Fast forward from growing up in New Smyrna Beach, FL. to present. Living in Washington State (equally amazing place) about 45 minutes by car to the closest surf spot (which up here isn’t that far, I am literally beach front but there are islands in the way of the swells). My life has changed as of today. After a brutal semester of not really surfing (twice in 3 months) due to time constraints and financial problems (art student) I was planning on hitting the coast with the truck for a week or two before summer quarter starts in order to get some much needed surf time. Even talked to one of my buddies out on the peninsula yesterday. Stoked. But I have just had a complete change of heart
: point being : I can not drive to surf any more, ever. I may be shooting myself in the foot for a long long time on this one and I am sure that there are people who may say whatever to this post but I am going to make this a commitment until I can find a better personal solution. This is a topic I am bringing up in hopes of sparking some kind of conversation with other surfers about what we can do, actually do, besides say we belong to surfrider. I am curious about how much surf time you would give up to not participate in this greedy, horrible practice. Gas. Money. Rich people that don’t surf or care about the spiritual side of life.
I just want to be able to not be ashamed of myself if i ever have a little kid and want to teach them how to pull into thick tubes with a pair of swimfins on. I want to be able to stand behind what exactly the sea means to me.
WHAT about you? Could you give up your board for a year? Forever? Your car? Would you be willing to spend exponentially less time in the sea just to walk to it from vast distances once in awhile? I know now that these things while seemingly sacrifices now would grow to become a wellspring of proudness and respect.
Thank god for airmats and road bikes.
Feel free to flame me or just vent. In case you didnt know the tarballs started washing up on Floridas west coast today.
This is real.