These spots appeared after the board was two weeks old. Epoxy, EPS, white resin pigment added. Spackled with distilled water. I don’t see any pin holes in that area. Any ideas?
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These spots appeared after the board was two weeks old. Epoxy, EPS, white resin pigment added. Spackled with distilled water. I don't see any pin holes in that area. Any ideas?
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[IMG]http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff242/fishersfort/fr_1146_size880_zpsdd70233c.jpg[/IMG]
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I surf in Carlsbad Ca. Our sand has alot of black in it. My guess is a surfboard without a gloss coat....I could be wrong.
Could be. I've seen it happen before.
looks like a mould
tell us how the eps blank was treated after it was shaped?
maybe you left it in a humid environment too long, and the mould inside blank found a way to rot it out to the surface. This also happens with humid wood inside surfboards.
also, you did not seal the blank did you?
and… pinholes can be so small your eye does not see them, so don’t trust on what you see only.
try soapy water and heating the board up, just like when repairing a bicycle tyre to find pinholes
wouter
It’s sealed with fast n final.
the spots are under the glassing
its just a sanded hot coat finish. I don’t spray anything on it.
I was thinking pin holes and water, but I’ve never seen water stain like that. Usually water leaves light brown streaks
Its from water of some kind. I’ve had dings on my epoxy boards turn mouldy like that. One of the many reasons I’ve abandoned epoxy and gone to UV cure Poly for most of my boards.
Dwight,
I agree, has to be pin holes. A lot of production guys seal the boards with a clear acrylic, post sand, or with a liquid acrylic sealer that you can wipe on with a cloth. It helps to keep the board clean and water tight.
Mold. I’ve seen it before. The grey color gives it away. Too much water added to the Spackle. Not allowed to dry out completely. Once glassed, water causes mold to form and cannot dry out. Use Acrylic with Spackle to thin. Works better as a bonding agent. And dries much better. I’ve painted over these mold stains to cover.
Barry Snyder
Thanks Barry. I do error on the side of wetter spackle. It spreads much nicer. I may have not have let it dry enough. I can’t recall whether I waited until the next day, or spackled in the morning and laminated that evening. My memory gets fuzy.
What type of Acrylic do you use?
Searching…I see Futures mentioned a lot. But Google shows nothing for Futures. What is Futures?
Behr makes an acrylic white drywall primer/sealer. Was thinking about trying that.
Hey Dwight,
I would agree that mold is probably the culprit. We saw the same kind of black/grey staining once along the stringers of some blanks that were glued up with a water-based adhesive.
Rob
Dwight, here’s the Future polish you want:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
If not at Food Lion or Harris Teeter, try Home Depot or Lowes.
Behr Tile Sealer. and if it's mold and there are any pinholes wipe the area down with bleach. If it's under the glass and no pinholes bleach won't work. The Behr tile sealer will work to thin your spackle and as a wipe down finish on a sanded hotcoat. Superior to Futures. Thinner and easier to work with. $29 per gallon and will do alot of boards.
Thanks. Picked up some during lunch.
Cool for a wipe on finish; You'll be happy. Once known as "secret sauce". One coat is good wiped on with your "paint pad"(multi-function tool that I know you like) or a staining pad. I actually like the tight-celled sponge inside the terry cloth cover of the staining sponge, so I scissor the cover and just use the sponge to wipe on the Behr sealer. Nice and even, no runs along the bottom edge of the rails. Done right that is good enough, but; You can use a white, maroon or grey 3M finish pad under an Orbital to burnish it a little. The heat makes it flow out a bit. Much easier to use than Future floor wax and other similar products.
I used to see that a lot during the war! It’s spores of Black Syphilis and if you get any on you ,you will be dead in about 4 weeks !! You should burn that board right now !!!
this is exactly why I don’t put anything but epoxy into / onto my EPS boards, why put vinyl & water between the foam and the glass, but you will all keep trying
McDing,
Love the finish from Behr tile sealer (satin).
A few months ago, I was down in Flordia. I saw a well known custom brand down there, with a sprayed glossy finish on the deck of their epoxy boards. It looked like hell. Zits and dust in the finish and the gloss magnified every flaw.
So happy with your secret sauce
Thanks,
Dwight
Good point Jim.
With SUPs, I swear my boards sealed with micro balloons and epoxy were heavier. Tough choices.
Good deal Dwight. UV and "secret sauce" are two of the best kept secrets in the industry. I've only used water to thin my "fast n final" spackle. The first two I did last year turned brown as I didn't even think about using distilled water. I had them painted and it was no problem they turned out great. Several people on this site though use Behr sealer to thin spackle and I've never heard them complain. When people first started talking about using spackle, people seemed to be worried about delam. But I haven't seen or heard of any of my boards or anyone elses delamming. I know one thing IMHO You can't tell one of my painted/spackled EPS boards from a painted Poly. Lowel
I agree about epoxy-styro foam
compatability as well as polyesther
polyurethane compat too.
I mean no water base paint
just pigment and resin on foam.
Spakle is for dry wall
dry wall is for
tract homes
give me resin
on foam please ,
with glass and
a gloss.Save the
water cooled
lightweights for the
land fill.
…ambrose…
sorry about the flaw.
the next board
will be better
I know it.
lunchmeat had a dehumidifier
in his glass shop for a while.
The amount of water it collected
and removed from the atmosphere
in the workspace was shocking.
And just think every time
he opened the door to the outside
the humidity went right back up
to east side humidity.