Briefly,
Getting to the question
Since you didn’t provide your own definition, I’ll go with mine.
Drive in this context is a reference to the quality of an
acceleration, in particular a continuous controlled acceleration,
rather than a jerky and/or less controllable or less predictable one.
Gaining or loosing…
Surfing has a sort of duty-cycle; in general, part of the time your gaining
energy, and the other part of the time, your loosing energy, sprinkled with moments when the two balance.
Unlike objects hurling about in outer space, a object moving with
a constant velocity in a viscous medium, if only partially submerged
requires a force. So even if you’re
moving with a constant velocity, you will be both acquiring and burning energy
to do so.
Half the story…Sources of energy*
There are three basic sources of energy available to the surfer
surfing on a wave: what he brings with him; the kinetic energy
inherent in flow of water; and, the planet’s gravitational field.
You may see your surfing style as turning a lot, but even if done
smoothly and seamlessly, one maneuver to the next, you will be cycling
through this duty cycle. And if you’re gaining energy, that energy is coming from one of
the three sources mentioned in the last paragraph.
Acceleration
But energy is not acceleration. Energy is just a form of
accounting, it doesn’t exist. It has no pure form. It is always
associated with something like a force or relative motion. So the above
reference to three sources of energy could have been termed instead
as three basic “forces”: whatever force the surfer himself can
bring to bare biomechanically; the forces developed from changes in
the momentum of the flow of water; and, the force associated with the
gravitational field.
Since force defined as mass times acceleration, all can play a
role in drive, and surfboard design or mechanical design in general,
can be used to both harness and control each, to the
extent that each can be respectively harnessed and
controlled.
Perception
A given surfboard which seemingly provides
one surfer with all the necessary tools to harness and
control these forces, may seem less so to another. This isn’t just a
matter of skill level, but technique too. This relates back to the
use of the term drive, not all are guaranteed to experience it on
similar equipment, let alone experience it to the same degree. This
is obviously important, particularly with regards to the role of technique. Given the way some
surfer surfs, he may find that a certain design element seems to
provide him with this sense of drive at the right times. That same
design element viewed as less important, if at all, in providing a
sense of drive by another surfer.
Getting back to the question
So the question
becomes, who's the market. And 'who' includes conditions, and
technique. So define the market. Is it a market that wants to rip up
slower mushier smallish 3-4 ft waves? Or a market that wants to
survive and maybe get a little more done on 40-60 ft waves? Or any
number of other scenarios.
Once the market is
known, you can then start the trade-off exercise.
kc
*the other half of
the story is energy sinks, or ways of dissipating energy, all of which are critical in design... but like I wrote at the beginning of the post "Briefly, "