bodyboard. that is the answer.
…Hey Nels can I get a fix from you…
…I got a new rig and no waves to ride…at least nothing I would concider riding.
I’m happy and blessed to be alive and well.
Rich Harbour,who has been for awhile now, going thru some major problems… is happy and blessed to be alive and well…as well. BTW Rich looks great ! He’s got so much energy now…I’m very happy for him.
I tell you what…You don’t know what you got…till it’s gone.Herb
Good thread. Now where can I get me one’a them hi-grade mats?
Thanks for all the responses. I think I’ll pass them along to my friend. I might go down to see him on Wednesday and maybe surf Swamis while I’m at it.
Oh, by the way, there is someone here who makes hi-grade mats- Dale Solomonson, although I think he’s had health issues of his own. Hope you’re doing OK Dale and still amking the mats.
Great question! Actually, I am somewhat dealing with the quesiton right now. I had a cervical discectomy procedure with a fusion of the C5-C6 vertebre and have been told that I have to stay out of the water for six months. So, what to do in the meantime? Walking, bike riding, streaching, and build more boards. Who knows, might even try something like tai chi on the beach…
for the last eight weeks I have been floating around in the ocean .
sometimes with a watercamera.
i guess if i could skate without risk , i’d do that
the skatey has been unridden for about a year now
when i think of dad about to commence radiation therapy , suddenly it puts my ‘situation’ in perspective.
ben
I haven’t been able to surf my whole life…
But I keep practicing…I’ll get better soon…
How important is surfing?
I’ve failed out of college because of it, I defiantly won’t live anywhere away from the beach (did that for 2 years, worst time of my life), I’ve ruined relationships, wasted money, damaged my skin, gotten scars from boards and fins, got sick, and turned my face blue in the wintertime.
Sometimes I honestly feel that learning to surf was a curse, but then I paddle out, glassy waves, jade green water, sun rising, birds flying, sun warming, friends hooting and I know that I would not have it any other way.
If I couldn’t surf, I would skate or make a surf vid.
Hey Monkstar - Totally agree with you - it’s a curse…an addiction right up there with heroin…so difficult to run your life around it - unreliable as the waves are…makes you also unreliable.
If i couldn’t surf - i’d probably do a lot better at work - but I’d be fatter and less happy - When i can’t surf I do Judo or some other kinda grappling (bjj whatever) …always available at the same time each week…keeps me quite fit…but Nothing else has ever gripped like my current 25 year addiction.