what is a reason for taking off in front of x___________

Ah, no need for the templates dude, we got Lost, CI and Rusty’s shapes already pirated and scanned for you to open the doors with primo sticks, the bubbles look like rad art work, no worry

my friend gave me some total boss soul templates when he cleaned out his archives.

I have been cutting them up for the masonite lately.where are you

stop by and get some noses and tails and maybe some half templates.

all you really need is one sheet of masonite and you can shoulder hop 

anybodys outline.Remember after you draw the line your technique

will distort even the best cad-alac template.

Now thats what I call paddling out turning around and dropping in on

someone’s set wave.

…ambrose…

Its o.k to plagerize a template when you are a kook

because the product of your plagerism

will never look like an original.

I have a similar story from a few years ago. I’m out alone at what is essentially my home break. A guy about my age paddles out and he’s on a board that belongs to a friend of mine. At first, I don’t recognize him and am thrown off by the fact he’s on my friend’s board. Then, it dawns on me. It is a well known “singer” (cough-cough) who’s known for singing about cheeseburgers and cocktails made with tequila and lime juice.

He tries to shoulder hop me once. I call him off with a “YO”. He does it again. This time I yell “HEY!”. On his third attempt, I zip past while he’s still paddling, and loudly say “Go away” over my shoulder. He paddles in. In spite of his claims in the media, he most definitely cannot surf. If he wasn’t riding my friend’s board, I would have ‘tapped’ him.

F you, Jimmy B.

Greed, selfishness, massive ego.

We often go after waves at the same time as others, but I’ll pull out as soon as I know another person has it. If someone tries to paddle inside of me and snake a wave, I usually don’t pull out.

I also like riding behind people so I’ll often take off behind someone and tell them to keep going. I find that I have to ride with more control in a confined space and I’ll ride more radically when I’m behind. A lot of times they pull out and I’ll have to paddle up to them and tell them that I wanted to ride behind them.

I think riding behind someone is as bad as riding in front of someone (unless you know them). 

Dropping in on someone sucks; being dropped in on sucks; and crowds suck; Iʻve missed a few more sucks but that is enough; crowds is the reason I diversified my water sport profile; surfing alone just doesnʻt  do it anymore; you guys who surf in crowds on a consistant basis must have tons of patience and tolerance; these days I talk more and surf less,āue… no can help…no more patience me!!! but I had my share and if the good times roll around again Iʻll be ready!!!

 

Pretty much. It’s annoying when you have to hit someone’s shins, just to do a roundhouse cutty.

[quote="$1"]

my friend gave me some total boss soul templates when he cleaned out his archives.

I have been cutting them up for the masonite lately.where are you

stop by and get some noses and tails and maybe some half templates.

all you really need is one sheet of masonite and you can shoulder hop 

anybodys outline.Remember after you draw the line your technique

will distort even the best cad-alac template.

Now thats what I call paddling out turning around and dropping in on

someone's set wave.

...ambrose...

Its o.k to plagerize a template when you are a kook

because the product of your plagerism

will never look like an original.

[/quote]

 

A Genious plan,

apply a tech-niche 

No style,

no stylus,

no face time.

Interface time.

In the face time.

A bezier plague.

covetousness, dismemberes the kook soul.

Thou shalt not drop in on thy neighbors wave.

 

tbod

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh no…the Ambrose sickness is contagious!

A reason ? Do any of the uneducated surf school “graduates” need a reason ?

Ignorance of the “code” should be treated with the contempt it deserves !!

Do greedy c@#_$ need a reason ? Me thinks not.

If thats not a good enuf reason, wot is ?

The “burning you” spectrum drivers range from the clueless to the arrogant/self-entitled, with everything else in between…The reason doesn’t matter, only our reaction…

Learned to surf in pre-wetsuit, pre-leash cold as hell Nor-Cal, a drop-in could mean a freezing swim and end of session for the burned… so dropping in was a serious transgression, often with consequences…so DNA coded “I don’t drop you, you don’t drop me”…

Nowdays we’re wetsuited and often leashed, so unless a drop-in endangers you, most reactions will be over-reactions because of what?  Self-pride, demanded respect, defending your place in the line-up heirarchy…over the years have remained personally more guilty of it then most…still hard to not instantly flare when blatantly dropped…and every time I do, I feel like an idiot for ruining my session with the anger I have to carry until it fades…and every time I don’t, I continue to enjoy my session, and like to think that after almost 50 years of surfing, maybe finally growing up…

 

 

 

Around here there are tons of surfers on longboards that can’t surf for shit. They’ll stay way out in the safe part of the wave and leave the best part wide open. I Think it sucks that these people are even in the water catching set waves waves. Too bad if you won’t take off behind them, your loss.

Ya sure, my loss until I throw a big 180 cut back and then it’s your loss as my nose takes your teeth out.

 

I'm not that stupid. I can tell when someone knows how to surf or not. I wouldn't screw with someone I know can surf.

I wouldn't have a problem riding behind you, when you cut back I'll be going up and around you. It's no big deal, I do it all the time. I've ridden behind very good surfers who dropped in on me, and managed to stay safe. 

I wouldn't have a problem sticking the nose of my board through your teeth, or up your backside as well. I've done it before. Only real jerks would get that kind of treatment.

 

 

It seems you completely missed the point of my quote from that post. I did not say that i can’t or won’t ride behind someone. we were talking about those who think they can snake in behind you and claim possession. I have no trouble holding my own in most any scenario. I’ve been surfing for 48 years and only give someone slack when they’ve earned it. Just because a person went out and spent 1k+ for some surfing gear, it does not mean they are entitled to ANYTHING.

You don’t walk into someone’s back yard and tell them what time it is.

True story: don’t remember the exact date but it was in the early 90’s I was still in high school. Theres a reef in the north shore of Puerto Rico named “Hallows”, which can get pretty crowded, it’s a very consistent shallow wave that really barrels and most waves spit, holds about 1 or 2 feet overhead yet it’s no place for beginners By that time in the early 90’s it began to get really crowded so some of the crazy stoner drug dealing locals decided it was a good idea to put on some masks, take some guns and uzi’s and began shooting in the air and got everybody out of the water and even stole some of their boards. Only 3 of my friends got spared cause their big brother was a friend of the crazies. Nedless to say, the spot and nearby spots remained fairly uncrowded for a couple of months. Today, most of the guys who did that are either dead or screwed up addicts… one of them found Jesus and is now a good man.

Sammy I may have quoted the wrong part, but my earlier post wasn’t toward you. As I said if I take off behind someone I expect and hope they keep going. There are many times when there’s plenty of room for 2 on a wave. 

I’ve been surfing since the mid/late 60’s, so I’m not a newbie or someone who doesn’t know how to surf.

a wave is a gift.

learning the ways of the ocean

is a study of an alternative catechism

all the catholic kids in my neighborhood

disappeared saturday mornings.

The ocean Catechism doesn’t have

organized saturday classes.If it did we would

achieve another dogmatic lifestyle to select.

The attraction of a life less cluttered

with a simple adherence to natural law

and physical science is refreshing.

so much can go stale in the civilized

world of men ,laws and the like

life and breathing can become 

more difficult.We are truly blessed

to have the opportunity

to watch the cascading order of 

a perfect moment in the life cycle

of a breaking wave and to become

cognizant of the higher forms

of wave appreciation.

The perceptions of ocean moods rate

a cerimonial ‘Confirmation’.

Too bad  surf ‘meets’ did not evolve into

a more parallel form.Perhaps “surf schools”

could have continuing formats to bring those

who wish to become more than vegetables for kook soup

or thugs and street urchins likely to be trained poorly.

Alternative curriculum to train the next generations’ in 

of every stripe of surfing etiquette as well as

exposure wave misuse and disharmony forms

from my wave -i- tude  through the spectrum to 

snake pit squidery and beyond. Every word spoken

in the spirit of order in the line up is likely to to 

fall on suspicious and cynical ears in these evolving times.

The higher etiquette forms could be compiled for the reasonable

without self serving bias.

 

I wish everybody I meet could have just caught a good wave

and rode it all the way to conclusion and felt better for it.

Reasons for actions are after thoughts.

the primary reason is we all surf is to feel good

after challenging ourselves with  the chaos

that  uninitiated non surfers see when

looking out over the place

we have come to believe

is our only real home.

 

there is a real order to surfing

that is written on the ocean surface.

Learning to read takes a long time

especially if you really want to understand.

…ambrose…

I hope you catch a really good wave 

just before I get to see you next time.

you seem so much happier.