When I first started shaping boards I bought the cheapest saw I could get my hands on. Now that I’ve realized how important that initial outline cut is, I was looking at buying something better. What type/size saw should I look at getting? Also, does it help to get an additional one with a narrower blade for cutting around tight curves? I’ve had some trouble getting around some curves with the one I’ve got. Thanks.
A good quality hand saw should do fine. The key is to take your time, making sure you saw vertically. Don’t force it, let the saw’s teeth do the work. Try to stay at 1/8" outside the line throughout the length of the board. For the tight corners at the nose and tail, use a sureform. The next, and probably most important step is to clean it up with the planer. Jim Phillips has said it a million times before: the planer doesn’t lie. Given that you’re template is natural & flowing, this is the secret to a clean outline.
You’ll want a fine toothed saw. The more teeth per inch the better. Make sure the teeth are not off set or angled. You want to make a clean cut.
are you guys shaping from a block of foam or a blank that has most of the shape already???
A good saw for cutting outlines is a Japanese pull saw. It cuts on the pull-stroke so the blade is in tension when it’s cutting, which makes it possible to have a thinner blade without as much wander in the cut-line. You can buy them at a good woodworking store. They are razor sharp and have minimal set in the teeth. It’s also easier to cut outlines if the blank is lying lower than the normal height for your shaping racks.
thanks for tip doug s. joel- if you would like to go on the less expensive side, any home depot will carry what you are looking for- the name evades me at the moment, but i remember the sleeve on the saw had a white shark in its logo- this saw, i have found, to be quite efficient. it features double split teeth and will cut on the pull up. and get the shorter version- less wobble. hope that helps.
…My Home Depot doesn’t carry the finish/veneer saws anymore that shaper is talking about,but check your local H.D. for old stock,(about $15.00+the governor).Another saw that works well is a 26" Stanley 12pt. SharkTooth crosscut saw,this one is my favorite for big jobs,and is nimble enough to do small jobs,(about $20.00+the crook’s fee).Herb
no saw satisfies like a router vertical uniform cut same as the template curves no binding sheetrock spiral cut out bit extends down 2" depth . hack tje rest with yer saw of duulling teeth the router dont need much clean up and cutouts take 1/10 the time. Every router cut out makes your sense of self esteem about your work get a gold star…throw away the saw use it fof dings or sideways like a sureform to shape a deck . But if you dont have a router…get one…my humble respects …I saw a picture of a big router , velzy’s thickness & rocker jig -------------clamp the template to the bottom run the blank router shaft against the masonite template full 1/2 board template 45-60 seconds per side true and clean flip it anddo the other side got 5 minutes? cut out another perhaps another aloha from waipouli ambrose
A good saw I have seen is a RIDGID saw mach like a tenon saw hard to describe . Plumbers use them for cutting pvc pipe but a good saw for a straight cut.
don’t forget to mention the part about tripping on the cord and plunging said respected tool into leg brah! some production methods better left to the pros - S.A. if your going to use the name use it with respect?
…A router is nice sure,but it requires using fixed templates(fulls or halves)with little or no room for ajusting.Also I’m not a production shaper,shaping/cutting out the same stick over and over again is boring to me.When I think of set-up/takedown time,noise,power use ,and the flying mess,a saw is easier/more versatile to use, and it’s just as accurate.If you can’t use your saws as accurately as your router,then you need to put more time into them.That’s the difference between being a shaper vs. a Master Craftsman.It doesn’t mean I don’t use routers for cutting out shapes occasionally,but my saws are way more versatile.I’ll save my 3 routers for boxes and cutting out skateboards,they do a better job in those arenas…Keep Building!Herb
what type of bit should i use for a router? template bit? i tried the handsaw route, it didn’t work out too well. a jigsaw doesn;t cut straight enough. i saw Ricky Carol cut the outline with a router. it was sooo fast and even. anymore tips would be great ambrose
I shape outside under te sun moon and stars.all my saws get rusty after a year or so …my impulsive adult ADD reality needs to be accomodated,The adjustment potential with a half template is considerable bumping out and in 1/4 “makes a board change a lot let alone increasing the width by an inch . The time I always spent referencing to get my vertical true on the cut out w the saw took all the fun and spontinaity out of the creative process that drives me to pursue this sculptural form . I usually have 6-8 boards cut out at a time although I don’t finish but 3 or 4 every couple months .I have 257 projects going at once. Its nice to zen up the process a little. When I try an reproduce a board for a friend " just like the one I just finished for me” Thanks for that tip about saftey. That slipped my mindsorry I didn’ mention it. The first time I used my grandfathers router It scared me to death .It weighed 25 lbs and took off with a mind of its own and the drunk next to me mentioned flying bits,tighten the collet real good too. Opperate with !TWO HANDS ON! and dont talk to anybody while its on. I didnt pick one up for 20 years after that. I bought this little makita that weighs about two pounds , its a dream Ive had it about 15 years and its has a saftey switch that shuts it off . When BASA gave me that picture of VELZY"S (sorry I didn’ respectfully capitalize before) router jig I was driven to pursue this router awareness It pleases me to share this with anyone who might get bored cutting out templates with a saw.and I love that smooth cutout that screams TURN THAT DECK DOWN TO HERE,and then block plane that rail with 11’ long curls that drop life spagetti at your feet(easy no dust cleanup) it makes all those apsses with the sand paper bearable how many miles to a 12’ board? surfing is more fun than anything including sawing.IF I get 1 more wave using my little ol router I wish you could too.Thanks for the controversy I think it perhaps brings a little clarity to all.The 1st Velzy I used #711at the Queens surf beach service at Public Baths gives me Velzy roots that can’t be reversed…I listen to Gene Autrey too thinking the whole time about who I owe my life and the only way I can pay it back is to pass it o.aloha from waipouli ambrose
Howzit Herb, You’ll have to realize that Ambrose does things a little different then other people but his end product is just fine. He listens to a different drummer but he’s in the same parade. Aloha, Kokua
Ambrose may be THE soul shaper. Plus he’s been written up in National Geographic, if I remember right. That’s not going to happen to many planer-drivers…
…I don’t have anything against Ambrose,and yeah I know of him. …I just put out the plain simple facts about Saws vs. Routers.They both work and have there places.To say that a saw is “no good” for cutting out boards is false.For that matter a sharp scalloped butcher knive will cut a board out accurately,with little clean-up. …My style allows me to pick-up whatever is in front of me and use it to it’s fullest potential. …I have no doubt that Ambrose can cut with the best of them.Herb
Hey Herb I’m with you, I use a hand saw… prefer the shorter (about 20") variety for better control… but there are lots of ways to skin a cat.