There's alot of talk about innovation around these boards and it makes me think of a young good looking local girl who came down to Kanaha one sunny morning for a surf. She quickly realizes she has left her board shorts and top hanging on a chair out on the lanai drying from yesterday. As she unstraps her board from her beater car watching the surf in the distance she sparks on an idea. I've already made the long paddle out and picked off a few waves from the "good vibe" crowd of mostly local guys. Myself being pretty much the only haole boy out there. As I sit facing the sea (remember; never turn your back on the ocean) she comes gracefully paddiling by on my left. You know the kind of paddle . Lightly touching the glassy surface with her finger tips, one leg and foot upright over her buttock. I immediatly think----Wow and double Wow. She's wearing a rash guard she found in the trunk of the beater and white cotton panties with little flowers on them. No doubt the same ones she put on that morning. White cotton panties(with flowers) and a rash guard. What was already a beautiful morning was even more so. Oh to keep it relevant she was riding a-----Well I forgot exactly what kind of board she was riding. Quite the innovator.
And then you woke up? 
HA! What more can you ask for in a surf session?
Lucky bugger!!. Being a dawn patroller, dont see many ladies out early, except for the odd "adult" photo shoot on the nearby rocks. Happened a few times, funny, the sets went through alone on those days hahaha
Very nice visual McDing! Reminds me of surfing over at Moke's early one morning at SC's. There was this beautiful blonde paddling out on a boogie board in a one piece suit that was essentially a g-string in back. She was paddling up the shoulder when the sun hit her shiny butt cheeks and this local guy paddling out just outside of her and closer to a pitching lip looks over and does the "wow!" look, can't quit staring, and goes right over the falls backwards! I had to turn my head and just about hurt myself suppressing a laugh that surely would have got my ass beat if he saw/heard me when he popped up from his drubbing.
Remember the Magnum PI television series? The opening credits wherein Magnum is pushing a girl out into the surf on a board with her pleasant rump in veiw? That wry smirk under Magnum's moustache? As an occasional surf instructor at some of surf schools on Maui; I can say that I know what's sometimes called that "Deja Vu" moment. Been there done that.
That’s Shirley Rogers. Famous North Shore photographer.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words.