On June 12, 2004, I joined Swaylock’s for the first time. Since my first post was in the “hookup” column, maybe not many of you saw my first post. here it is:
“Hi, everybody. I just signed up to Swaylock’s. I am French, living, surfing and shaping in Guéthary -about 3 miles south of Biarritz- I’d be glad to exchange ideas about design and shape, especially longboards and guns. I am almost 50, 'been surfing since 1966, shaped my very first board in ‘69, and never quit since… I’m a carpenter and I’m really hooked up on chambered balsa boards. Unfortunately, balsa is pretty hard to find here in France, at least in lengths over 5’. If any of you has plans about a trip to France, maybe I can help. Meanwhile, please forgive my bad English and let’s talk so I hopefully will improve. By the way, we have a similar web-site over here that’s called Shaperoom. Mainly in French, of course, but a few people do understand English, so if you feel like giving it a try, don’t let the weird French language bother you: I, for one, may answer. Just allow a few days to look up my words in the dictionnary… Just kidding…”
The very first answer to this first post came almost immediately from a Kauai resident named “Ambrose”. I couldn’t believe my eyes… All this web-surfing was new for me and I was not used (to say the least) to be actually talking with a guy in Hawaii… We talked a bit about wooden boards, then Doc came in with interesting things to say -as usual- and then I thanked them all and ended my post like this:
“Thanks a lot for your answer, Ambrose. See you someday, be it in Hawaii or in France or somewhere else. Just like you said, politics won’t keep good people apart. All of us surfers just want a better world for our kids to live in.”
Believe it or not, but today is September 8, 2008 and I picked up Ambrose and his wife at Biarritz’ railway station for a 3-day stay here in Guéthary. We just had lunch together, overlooking the spot at Parlementia and we enjoyed talking for real after four years of virtual talking. It just felt like meeting a very old friend that you haven’t seen for long…
Life never ceases to surprise me…