Like others - a straight edge from rail to rail but then I use a wedge shaped piece of wood I slide under the straight edge, mark it and take it out and measure it. Also I use pennies - they’re 1/16" thick.
I do a similar thing, but I use square aluminium tube because it is more regular shape. I use calipers to measure from the top of the bar to the deck and then subtract the thickness of the bar (or zero the caliper at bar thickness). Easier to get an accurate measurement.
Inch markings on the bar make it easy to profile the concave by taking multiple measures out towards the rail.
If the stringer is higher than the rails I glue short pieces of tube on at the ends to give the measurement tube double height at the rails. They lift the measurement tube up so it doesn’t rock on the vee.
I do a similar thing, but I use square aluminium tube because it is more regular shape. I use calipers to measure from the top of the bar to the deck and then subtract the thickness of the bar (or zero the caliper at bar thickness). Easier to get an accurate measurement.
Inch markings on the bar make it easy to profile the concave by taking multiple measures out towards the rail.
If the stringer is higher than the rails I glue short pieces of tube on at the ends to give the measurement tube double height at the rails. They lift the measurement tube up so it doesn’t rock on the vee.
Bingo! Thats all the way around better than what I’m doing.
I do a similar thing, but I use square aluminium tube because it is more regular shape. I use calipers to measure from the top of the bar to the deck and then subtract the thickness of the bar (or zero the caliper at bar thickness). Easier to get an accurate measurement.
Inch markings on the bar make it easy to profile the concave by taking multiple measures out towards the rail.
If the stringer is higher than the rails I glue short pieces of tube on at the ends to give the measurement tube double height at the rails. They lift the measurement tube up so it doesn’t rock on the vee.