Where did the fun go?

Nobody likes a crowded wave.  I get it.  But why is it that anyone who considers themselves an "experienced" or "good" or "talented" surfer finds it necessary to suck the fun out of any day surfing.  They spend so much time bitching about this kook or that ass, i just don't get it.  Is it that the only way im allowed to get in the lineup is to rip?  How am I supposed to rip if you won't let me out? And the bitching is the least of it, I don't need to listen to you threaten me, or get violent, it makes me angry, and I'm not out here to be angry, im out here to get away from angry. 

To me, it's about fun.  Whether im eating sh** on a big day, or riding little bumps.  I just want to be out in the water having a good time, laughing it up with whomever is out there.  Getting stoked for other peoples rides, and having them stoked on mine.  I don't care if we are riding short boards, long boards, sup, kayaks or surfskis.  who cares.

Seriously, ease up, be cool, have a good time.  I do.

This morning.  Paddled a 8'6 at a normally crappy spot...  I'd say there were 6 guys + me who were around.  I'd paddle for a wave, but then see another guy going for it, ahead of me, so I communicated, and said 'go for it.' Ok, we had something working.  Then this dude on the left was paddling for a wave and I was like 5 feet from him while he was going for the wave.  He comes back after getting thrashed and starts talking crap about me like 30 feet away. duh, I'm not deaf. 


How many girls do you see out regularily?  I'm not a wave hog...  and I'm not in your way.  PLus the waves were crappy.   I paddled in & called it a day. 


909 I'm sure. 

Since the question has been asked a couple times, im 32, surf fairly regularly and don't suck.  Was just testing the waters, see where everybody sat on the issue.  Now I know, and am terribly dissappointed. I design my schedule and daily chores around surfing, it's part of life to me.  Wish everyone could share that same stoke without the anger.  bummer.  for those who share the same view, I hope I run into you sometime it'll be fun.  For those that don't, well, i hope it doesnt come to me holding your head under water for just a little while.


and by the by, im just kidding. even if youre pissy, im still stoked that your riding. don't have too much angst. it's too much fun for all that.

I can surf pretty much anywhere within driving distance and never even get any stinkeye, much less get bitched out.    Places where nobody knows me.  I know that its the same for many surfers.   I assume the crowds are the same for us all, so the only other variable there is comes down to the manner in which we act as individuals.  


Think about it - what do you suppose some of us are doing that you’re apparently not doing?  

My fun ends where your fun begins…

I had an individual paddle under me after waiting in line for a nice set wave…totally hung me up and blew the wave for me.

paddling back out she says “sorry, I didn’t know which way you were going”.

to which I responded in dead pan, “it’s a right-hand point break”.

jebus save me.

Show up, get a few and leave without anyone knowing you were ever there. It’s a challenge, people are pissed cause summer brings the crowds and poor surf (in my part of town). So many new people show up daily and many with a sense of entitlement. I learned to surf as an 11 year old, it was the 70’s and mean and I was scared to death. I look back fondly on it now though. Put your time in and lay low and eat the urge to demand respect. These can be hard pills to swallow for an adult - it’s the worst part about surfing… and the best part too. We bitch for a reason, maybe not a good reason but for a lot of us this is more than a pastime or hobby. I should add, good surfers are good because of hours logged in the water. It takes work, surfing is hard as hell to do well and there are no shortcuts.

look, i’m the first to agree that people suck. no matter what place of work, no matter what place of recreation. I just don’t feel I have to add to the suckiness. If i have a wave blown for me by some “kook” or somebody who just learned the nose of a board points forward, okay. who cares. theres plenty of waves, its a friggin ocean, its what it made of, lots of waves. and if it was the wave of the day, well im not the hero that could rip it to perfection and its no big loss. There will be other days. Nothing to get upset about. I ran into people when I was first learning too. Hell, let me take it another step, and help them learn. And not in a menacing 'youre an idiot let me show you the light" kind of way.
so those of you out for fun. hell lets surf, bs, and have a beer afterward. All others need not apply.

Hey Stakks - It may help your case to provide some more info on yourself - even in the user profile, not that that’s happening much, but that’s been another thread.

(This is an “edit”/addition. Figured I’d take my own advice.)

I’m 45.  Been trying to surf since I was 14.  I’ve lived in Oregon, So. and Central Cal, and some all to brief stints in “the islands.”  I live and work in Newport OR, within a mile of the beach, the local I “claim” is a couple miles up the road, and my “secret spot” is about 13 miles up the coast.  I try to surf when ever I can, and the biggest crowds I regularly see is about 15-20.

About 20+ years ago in Newport CA, I remember seeing a guy ripping a left hander off a jetty, and he had a scowl on his face the whole time… I thought what a drag it must be to be that guy… I’m sure years later I’ve been that guy, save the ripping, just surfing competently. 

I’ve been working hard on my attitude the last couple years.  I didn’t like my attitude; neither in or out of the water.

On the one hand there are going to be a near infinite number of waves, but on the other hand, the number of really good waves of a given size range, esp. biggerish, that will come to a given area/spot over the next season, year, decade could easily be counted.  To me it is then understandable folk, esp. older, serious about getting good waves folks, may have a challenge to face when it comes to making peace with getting “their” piece of the wave pie.

For my part - I’ve taken to trying to surf where others aren’t, and if I surf where others are I try to focus on staying positive.  If that means waiting outside for bigger sets, setting off for shift sets, or setting inside for inbetweeners, so be it. Heck, I often do that when I’m alone anyway.  I do love my solitude time in the water, so I vote for solo sessions, or setting far enough out that I can’t see the other people while looking at the horizon.  And, as I said, to look towards the “fun,” if I’m focused on having positive vibes, then I’ll have fun no matter what.

As some say - my $.02

THe 'FUN" went into people’s brains and can’t get out----i find that if i’m not having fun i can’t even surf. So i go home and  do something else.  there’s lots of waves out there , just go find your own, the search is half the fun anyway.   i just peddle my bike further down the beach and find the ‘fun’.   after 40+ years, if the fun ain’t there, neither am i…

Right on Walrus

It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt. The reason most people get yelled at is because they are a water hazzard.  Either they are a human buoy right in the middle of the line up, or they have a knack of being right in the impact zone on a set wave, or they paddle for the shoulder when they should be paddling to the whitewater, or they throw there board when they should be duck diving it...etc, etc,etc It goes on and on, and on.  There's 10,000 ways to fuck a line up..up, but there's ony a few rules to make it run smoothly.  

My recommendation is to make sure you know the rules of surfing. Live by those rules. Smile at the friendlies, give the grumpies a wide birth......a 10 second assessment of the line up will tell you all this.  Help the line up run smoothly, and it will be a fun surf....screw it up and the powers that be will come down on you. It's not that hard to stay out of trouble.

As for getting waves...summer sucks, small, warm water waves brings out all the "freaks and hairy's" It's a fact of life deal with it. Winter will show who's who. when it's big it's amazing how all those guys with attitude turn into your buddy.  Everybody is looking out of each other's back.   What you need a a bunch of thoses day's and next time summer rolls around....guess what? the locals are now tollerating you shanagians. Do that a few years, and you become a local.   Now the trick is not to turn into a dick local.



 your friendly neighborhood local.

**stakks queried: "Where did the fun go?"**


The “fun” began to wane in direct proportion to the commercialization of surfing. The more it’s been marketed to the masses by corporations, the lower the quality of the average person’s experience at their local breaks. As surfing has become more of a commodity, those people who have bought into the “lifestyle” pitch generally don’t have the perspective of those who’ve been at it a while.

If you find that you are getting negative attention while in the water, I suggest an examination of your own behavior. If you can’t stay out of the way, then go away.

Just because you bought a surfboard and a wetsuit it does not mean you are ‘entitled’ to anything. Earn your waves, or find another “lifestyle” activity to occupy your time.

SammyA - Ouch!  But mostly yes. And as Jay pointed out…

Most the life stylers aren’t around when it start to really get over head… Not the “overhead” claimed when a guy is at the bottom of the wave crouched way over…

And - to quote Jay again…

“they paddle for the shoulder when they should be paddling to the whitewater”

I’ve seen more bullshit like this in the last couple years… ugh… of all the kook moves…

Let’s try to stay positive huh… Ha!


How long have you been surfing stakks?  How old are you?

Some of us grumpy old men have been surfing decades and are relegated to weekend warrior status and NO, THERE ARE NOT PLENTY OF WAVES!  Not the places where I surf.  Often there is one or two waves every 10 minutes for 25± surfers.  So yeah, if you snake me or get in my way or take the wave and blow it,  I"M GONNA BE PISSED OFF!  You just ruined my session, which means you ruined my weekend, which means you ruined my week and if there’s a flat spell, YOU RUINED MY WHOLE MONTH…BRO.  Share the stoke!


Hey, where’s Silly?  This guy needs a internet beat down!

I admit it, I'm one of those people that gets pissed off.  I've been surfing for 28 years.  I've built my life around surfing.  I rarely ever surf beyond walking or bicycle distance from my house. 

My frustration began with the advent of the widespread use of cell phones in the mid 90s.  It get even worse with the widespread use of the internet.  Right now you can pull up no less than half a dozen surf cams on the internet of the breaks in my town.  Two of them even move and are so detailed that you can recognise individual surfers.  All this has resulted in it being rediculously crowded every single time there are waves.  Prior to 10 years ago there were swells that snuck up that only the locals and most dedicated would know about.  You had to live nearby and be on it to catch it good.  Back then you pretty much knew everybody that was part of the core crowd.  Not only did you know them but you also knew their ability level and you knew who you could and couldn't trust in the water.

Today, Its a rediculous free for all in the water.  Even people who live an hour inland know the minute its good and are on it clogging the lineup.

Add to that the number of people who suck at life and are using a longboard as a crutch to hide their complete lack of skills in the water.

Yea, you could say i'm bitter................

I think some people take it for granted. The waves, and the fact that they are physically able to surf.

 Im lucky enough to work shift work, so pre dawn midweek surfs mean 3 or 4 people in the water, sometimes none. Although its spring now, so this morning there was 10, spread around a few peaks. Where i live its not generally crowded anyway, and im definately thankful for that.



Since I’ve been making and riding my own boards, I get 45% less stinkeye, rag ons, bitch and call outs.

My previous boards were all famous signature line boards.

Email me for a quote.

crowds stakk up,

yesterday, shoulder to head on the drop then a dump to basically a knee high foam ride with about twenty guys on it at my local yesterday. Yeah if I eliminate the people I could practice bottom turns, with that in mind I wasn’t too stoked about fun for the day. However, I notice the left side of the pilings is workin because of the tiny bump up in size.  I have fond memories of that place because of all the alaia rides I have had there this summer, It was the Alaia proving grounds. So ok, I paddle to the pack to see if anyone I know is around, nope, wait in the corner on top of the right side pilings, catch one and paddle over to the left side.

Best session in weeks all alone on the left side. Tide comes up and knocks the wave count down, done. Fun.

This morning was different, pack was there and pretty much the same wave, slightly different swell angle, I go to the middle of the bay and catch a few of the wide ones, ok - guess thats it, drift my way to the pack because thats the trail back home, pick a nice one that will get me in an swing around, wow a right, only had one of these in two days. Set a line and see two guys down near the bottom with a couple strokes left before they duck. No leash and fresh wax its a right Im regular… why not. I choose the second guy down the line, this egg under me has enough room to squeeze between um. I scowl, its an acting job but they won’t know, hey I get a closer look at him and recognize him… maybe. Have a hard time keepin the scowl on as he disappears into the wave coming around the brief white section I pop back in then see another down the line, Its Akemi, a girl I met the other day in some windslop waves, ohh but the line is gonna close, gotta straighten, oh well Ill try and give her a five next time, finished. Done. Fun.

fun? Its always changin round here stakks, I try too sometimes.

For those of you who think Im overly smug well, my slippuhs got ripped off four days ago to prove my life isnt perfect. Three other locals round here have suffered the same fate.

I bought a board from Otis and I got laid IN THE LINE UP.

worth every penny.