im so jealous!!! swamis is 8 feet. malubu is 6. I NEEED SOME OF THAT . . . . my identity crisis is OVER! I KNOW WHERE I STAND. I can only appreciate longobards with 50/50 rails, circa 1965, some rolled v and some tip time. pivit! otherwise it feels like im riding a giant shortboard. so when the waves arent good for loggin, i break out the 70’s inspried single and it just flows. 3 TUBES TODAY. and i NEVER hit the lip. NEVER EVER. IM NOT THE GRRRRRRRRRRRR MAN TYPE. today i wanted to, so it hit it 3 times in a row on closed out sideshore shit beachbreak. i was so SIKED. all this time i was trying to commit to the log or shorty, and i couldnt understand that i need both to be complete. i will see you. i will see you.
illumination is so refreshing
wait till you taste the next course
it makes goin’ back all the sweeter
we just training
to take greater advantage of the potentials.
the log is just a glimmer of what we could know…firsthand
as is the shortie lip hit
the narrow scope?
degrades potential.
GOOD JOB LAD KEEP GROWING
…ambrose…