I’ve missed some very good days of surf over the last 40 odd years of trying this surfing thing because I’ll know after one or two waves that I’m just not “ON” on that particular day. I’ll just paddle in before bruising my ego, if that’s where I feel the session is going.
It happens, no matter the quiver. Some days you just don’t have it going. Who knows why? Sit on the beach and watch - go read a good book - get laid - drink - but, just don’t surf - chill and go back tomorrow or whenever - it’ll all be good when YOU are ready.
That’s some sage advice. This time of year is always the most frustrating for me. The combo of south swells and south winds drives me nuts. Luckily there are plenty of things to help keep me busy out of the water.
Had a GREAT lunch time sesh today!!! The wind stayed down, the swell came in, and the crowds spread out. I traded cars with my wife today and forgot the fish so I rode my 7’2" egg. Oh the sweet release!!! I’ll take the fish out again tomorrow. Hopefully the conditions will cooperate. Life is good
sometimes if i’m having a bad day on a fish i’ll think about what i’m doing wrong & usually it’s because i’m standing too upright, my centre of gravity is too high. a thing i do to correct this is to make myself touch the water with my trailing hand on forehand bottom turns (or touch the outside rail on backhand bottom turns) & to touch the rail or deck of my board on high-line drives. this little process centres me over my board & keeps me low, after a few waves i’m back on track.
sometimes if i’m having a horrible surf (whatever i’m riding) i just go in, dump my board on the beach, bodysurf for 20 minutes or so, then surf again. usually i find this clears the block. a frolick in the shore reminds me not to take surfing too seriously.
