…swaylocks needs it !!
I’ll go first.
Stoked to be shaping at home again in private to create and innovate away from nosey shapers.
Stoked to be feeling more creative!
Many new things coming out of my shaping room!
I will not share my stroke with you!
My spies are watching, and reporting EVERYTHING !
haaaaaaaaaaaaaa haaaaaaaaaaaaaa !
so , now you are a bit of a thrillkiller eh , mate ? … join the throng …
[ … but … don’t worry … no one ever died from being ‘ínfected’ by stoke , ben !
good on you , Barry !!
as another enthusiastic , creative ’ Swaylock’s user said , in his signature …
… 'don’t let the bastards grind you down ’ [ too true !]
The other day, I got fed up with the crowds and bad attitudes at the beaches near my work where I normally surf. So I got up real early, and headed over to a private beach in a secluded cove, that a fellow swaylocks member introduced me to. Sky just barely starting to lighten up, couldn’t see the surf, but I took my chances.
Climbed down the rusty steps that go straight down the cliff, and walked the quarter mile in. From the beach at the base of the cliff, you can’t see anything but the sheer face of the cliff, and the sea. Probably looks about the same as it did two hundred years ago, or two thousand, for all I know. Its a trip just making that hike in complete solitude, alone with God’s creation in its pristine state.
Anyway, I get to the surf spot, three guys out, and only one at the peak. He and I shared the peak, taking turns, for close to two hours, waves about 4 foot, super glassy and really fun, bowled up takeoff, then a big soft shoulder, then fast and hollow inside but dangerously close to the rocks, so be sure to kick out just when it gets really fun haha! We did. Only a couple of the set waves broke far enough out to pass the rocks and ride all way through. I got so many good waves on my newly built board.
then around 8 o’clock the regular crew showed up, throwing their stinkeye around and calling waves. I didn’t care, it was time for me to go to work anyway! Drove past all the uber-crowded popular spots on my way. Laughing to myself all day.
Sometimes, in spite of all the negative stuff, surfing is such a blast!
Nice description Huck, I am mind surfing that break right now, even though I have never seen it.
Gotta say I am stoked, I got a board from a local shaper pretty much down the street, and it has enlightened me a bit on rocker+volume. Been surfing it for about a month now, and it is working. You know that feeling when you are on a shorter board, and you are 5 yards too far out, you paddle like hell, but the wave just goes under you?
Well I have been consistently making those waves with this board. Was out this morning and caught a bunch. Good start to the day. Oh yeah, had it all to myself this morning:)
Hey Jason, did you surf this morning? I went out to Cliffs side about 6:20, and no one was out at Lighthouse yet. I thought about you and your spot, I want to go out there. The other day I went out and it was small extra high tide junk. Your spot had a few nice looking waves when I walked down to the beach. No one out there, no one out at lighthouse either. Lots of us were saying how we just needed to get wet. Walking back up I noticed that your spot may have been a better choice than the main break.
Been in a funk for a couple of weeks, since the last swell. I guess I surfed harder than I should have, I rubbed the scar from my heart operation raw and it was bleeding. It’s also been tender and sore. Don’t know how many days I’ve gotten up before first light to go surfing only to crawl back in bed and go back to sleep. Today I forced myself to go, so I put a bandaid over the open sore and put on an extra wetsuit top for padding. I had a little over an hour to surf and get back home, and I didn’t catch a wave for the first 30 minutes. Then I got a crappy one, and another crappy one. Lots of people sitting in a small space vying for a wave, so I paddled down between the main peaks and I started catching waves all to myself. The rides got better and better and in 30 minutes I was about as happy as I could be. Not a great day, or great waves, but it felt good to be surfing again.
Walking back up I thought about you Jason, heck you may have been out there. We gotta go out to that spot together one of these days.
great stuff , Harry !!
… back in the water eh ! :) good on ya mate !
Is Bernie also surfing now ??
And , if you like foiling fins [?] , stay tuned …
Lately , I have been going through my [ numerous] fin panels … cutting them into fin blanks [ your wood veneers , amongst them !]
swaylocks is about sharing the stoke …don’t let the threadkillers kill the stoke !
Hey Ben, I took a photo of the fins I cut out, but I need to get it online for you. They need to be foiled. I have about 6 fins of different sizes that need fnishing.
Bernie is just getting back in the water. I gave him back the softboards he bought after I had my heart operation.
Glad to hear you made it out. A buddy and I went yesterday afternoon, and hit it right on high tide. Caught some small ones right away, then it just died, Today I made it out there around 8:30. I had to drop my son off first. I saw around 8 people at lighthouse, but it looked bigger down the beach. I went to the other side, and it was sorta good. The ocean seemed a little unsettled:) There was a lot of water moving around. I missed my first couple waves, and ate it. I am still getting used to the extra volume. Then I made one that was real nice, and the board was flying, and I could hear the whitewater roaring behind me. No fancy turns, just a good bottom turn, then shot like a rocket.
Oddly enough I think it got better later in the morning.
I am going to try and go tomorrow morning again, although high tide is at 7am. Email me if you want to meet up. I can go whenever works for you.
I have the morning off, so I’ll probably hit it early and surf for 3 or 4 hours. If it’s blowing at all, I’m heading to Courts or Waikiki, otherwise I’ll go to Diamond Head. I got home from the beach this morning by 8:10. There were a handful of people out at Lighthouse when I walked back up the hill. The water was a bit unsettled at Cliffs and Right Hands. Not lined up very well at Right Hands, so I went to the in between section and had it all to myself. I got a few longer rides there, and a couple overhead drops before I had to go home.
in 2012 I almost died from a burst appendix I didn’t realize I had till it was too late
it came after a wonderful weekend hanging out with Keith, Uncle D, and my brother at Charlie’s house
it took almost a year to recover still have a mean belly scar
shortly after sold my beach car and most of my high performance shortboards
but I got back into it
then in 2013 my brother had his 5 bypass open heart surgery
it came after one the most epic surf sessions we’ve ever had
took him 6-9 months to get back into it he’s still sporting a mean chest scar
finally the February I had my long over due full knee replacement of my right knee (surfing backfoot)
of which I am still recovering by going to PT weekly
I am still pending the same surgery on the other knee which I am holding off now because of how long its taking with my right
unfortunately last november I’m pretty sure I tore my rotator cuff on my right shoulder trying to paddle my fat ass into some choice waves on Kauai
but I’ve kept it hidden because of my knee surgery in Feb
almost 20 lbs lighter and maybe one day 25-30 before year’s end hoping that it will help with both the knee and shoulder for now
I finally got the nerve to paddle out last weekend on a 10’ softtop with no one out
walking down to the beach with such a big heavy board was sketchy on wobbly legs as was trying to stand up for the first time
plus my knee makes all kinds of strange clicking sounds tredding water as I sit on the board waiting for waves
and my right shoulder hurts like hell tryng to paddle out
but in the end, after almost 6 months of being no where near the ocean out of fear and frustration
walking with a hurrycane and suffering through ever intensive PT…
I was able to catch and somewhat surf 6 tiny waves in an hour or so
and getting that “feeling” back (you know the “feeling”)
to make me want to go back again and try it one more time
even though almost everyone I meet tells my I should give it up and move on.
I am blessed to be able to surf even if only as a beginner again
and for that I am thankful
its time to let the ocean heal me like I know it will
the world is full of ugliness
its up to us in how we let it affect us
but right now I am smiling inside again
for the ocean always makes me feel that way
surf ot not
In 09’ spent 4 months on Oahu from April thru July doing some healthcare facilities consulting.
Once the souths started, surfed Lighthouse pretty much every morning there were waves at crack of dawn.
Wave suited me to a T, very much like my favorite reef back home.
the main guy holding it down was a thickster riding an assortment of chunky Aipa’s.
Couldn’t get much out of him, dropped me occasionally, all good, I was the guest there, plenty of waves.
One early morning was standing on the wall next to the path watch well overhead sets with some warble in them from a side wind hitting the reef from a fresh swell.
“So we out there or what?”
Look over, said thickster had just walked up next to me.
Hella fun session, air drop takes offs, some kick your ass pitches, some deep runners all the way through to drydock shallows, no one else ever paddled out.
Next morning, a bit late, paddle out to the lineup, thickster holding down the peak. Set comes, a wave swings a bit towards me. Instead of his usual sprint paddle over to intercept it, he just looks over at me.
“You going or what?”
Yea, I was stoked. Plenty stoked.
Another form of PT, that never feels like PT, but helps get everything working again is skindiving. Breath, arms, legs, and cardio all seem to benefit. Plus, you may end up with a good dinner in the bargain. I agree with you, the ocean surely has healing power. Especially in Hawaii.
been swimming while it’s flat - stoked
mini simster at the low tech lab finishing off the glassing - stoked
7’3" A blank on the rack for Sway Swap - stoked
swell coming next week - super stoked
hydraulic steering system almost done being repaired - WAY STOKED
life is full of Sways Stoke!!!
Stoked on South Shore, Oahu and Gold Coast, Oz.
working on a new twinnie for myself and fall swells are coming in soon STOKED