I’d like to try a large oldstyle fish similar to Tom’s 7’2" in the Funboards archive. Where is the approximate widepoint on a board this size and what would be the ideal measurement point to point on the swallow. I’ve been trying different measurements but they just don’t seem to look right. Thanks for all of the help, you guys are the best!
I’d like to try a large oldstyle fish similar to Tom’s 7’2" in the > Funboards archive. …I would go with 3-1/2" up from the center point,and 8-1/2" tip to tip…T.S.should zip in soon to give you his di.'s.Herb.
Herb, Tom, spill it Bros! I was gonna ask some of the same ?‘s Just made a 6’ 6" fish temp yesterday and it looks terrible. I wanted somthing that looked like your 6’ 5" fish, or Toms 6’1" (?). The numbers seem ok but it just looks wrong. It has a 18" nose 22" wide (4"up from center) and a 16 1/2" tail. used a piece of scribe moulding to make the curves and let it flow, but it ended up with a 12" swallow and the rail line from mid on back looks to straight. HELP! Wanna sell me an outline? Scott. ps. Herb, I’m gonna try out the Supercharged 6" 10" today!!! Let you know how it go! Cheers Bro.
I was hoping the experienced fish er men would respond. I’m not much on fish building, but I played around with some shapes for the width and length you gave. This one is 6-6 x 17 x 22 x 18.2, wide point 1.2" forward, 7" stern. The nose template overlaps the stringer .8" for a little sharpness. You’ll have to provide your own inside curves for the swallow tail. Tail rocker is 2.6% of board length, and nose rocker goes to a 50% slope from level. It looks about right. I would put it on a paper template first. x , y , Rocker 0.0 , 0.00 , 2.03 0.0 , 3.50 , 2.03 0.5 , 4.02 , 1.97 1.0 , 4.44 , 1.91 2.0 , 5.11 , 1.79 3.0 , 5.65 , 1.68 4.0 , 6.12 , 1.57 5.0 , 6.52 , 1.47 6.0 , 6.89 , 1.38 7.0 , 7.21 , 1.29 8.0 , 7.51 , 1.20 9.0 , 7.79 , 1.12 10.0 , 8.04 , 1.04 11.0 , 8.28 , 0.96 12.0 , 8.50 , 0.89 13.0 , 8.70 , 0.82 14.0 , 8.90 , 0.76 15.0 , 9.07 , 0.69 16.0 , 9.24 , 0.63 17.0 , 9.40 , 0.58 18.0 , 9.54 , 0.53 19.0 , 9.68 , 0.48 20.0 , 9.80 , 0.43 21.0 , 9.92 , 0.38 22.0 , 10.03 , 0.34 23.0 , 10.13 , 0.30 24.0 , 10.23 , 0.26 25.0 , 10.32 , 0.23 26.0 , 10.40 , 0.20 27.0 , 10.47 , 0.17 28.0 , 10.54 , 0.14 29.0 , 10.60 , 0.11 30.0 , 10.65 , 0.09 31.0 , 10.70 , 0.07 32.0 , 10.74 , 0.05 33.0 , 10.78 , 0.04 34.0 , 10.81 , 0.03 35.0 , 10.84 , 0.02 36.0 , 10.86 , 0.01 37.0 , 10.88 , 0.00 38.0 , 10.89 , 0.00 39.0 , 10.90 , 0.00 40.0 , 10.90 , 0.00 41.0 , 10.90 , 0.01 42.0 , 10.90 , 0.01 43.0 , 10.90 , 0.02 44.0 , 10.90 , 0.04 45.0 , 10.89 , 0.05 46.0 , 10.89 , 0.07 47.0 , 10.88 , 0.09 48.0 , 10.87 , 0.11 49.0 , 10.85 , 0.14 50.0 , 10.83 , 0.17 51.0 , 10.80 , 0.20 52.0 , 10.77 , 0.23 53.0 , 10.73 , 0.27 54.0 , 10.69 , 0.31 55.0 , 10.63 , 0.36 56.0 , 10.56 , 0.41 57.0 , 10.49 , 0.46 58.0 , 10.40 , 0.51 59.0 , 10.30 , 0.58 60.0 , 10.18 , 0.64 61.0 , 10.05 , 0.71 62.0 , 9.90 , 0.78 63.0 , 9.73 , 0.86 64.0 , 9.55 , 0.95 65.0 , 9.34 , 1.04 66.0 , 9.10 , 1.14 67.0 , 8.84 , 1.25 68.0 , 8.54 , 1.36 69.0 , 8.21 , 1.48 70.0 , 7.83 , 1.62 71.0 , 7.41 , 1.76 72.0 , 6.92 , 1.92 73.0 , 6.37 , 2.10 74.0 , 5.72 , 2.30 75.0 , 4.95 , 2.53 76.0 , 3.99 , 2.81 77.0 , 2.68 , 3.15 77.5 , 1.74 , 3.37 78.0 , 0.00 , 3.65>>> Herb, Tom, spill it Bros! I was gonna ask some of the same ?‘s Just made a > 6’ 6" fish temp yesterday and it looks terrible. I wanted somthing > that looked like your 6’ 5" fish, or Toms 6’1" (?). The numbers > seem ok but it just looks wrong. It has a 18" nose 22" wide > (4"up from center) and a 16 1/2" tail. used a piece of scribe > moulding to make the curves and let it flow, but it ended up with a > 12" swallow and the rail line from mid on back looks to straight. > HELP! Wanna sell me an outline? Scott. ps. Herb, I’m gonna try out the > Supercharged 6" 10" today!!! Let you know how it go! Cheers > Bro.
Templating is a funny thing…a kind of magical time for the moment.It’s the bending of lines into curves…What made me a better shaper/outliner is …to forget about the fact that it is a surfboard you are working on for a moment and concentrate on the curves and contours…That’s why you have all that fancy lighting and painted walls for…think thru it , use your mind’s eye as well as your eyeballs…if you need templates, I will provide some for you,…but the sign of a true master craftsman/surfboard builder is to create your own lines! Now that the Zen lesson is over for the day…what will it be guys,…the ball is in your half of the court now.Herb…E-mail me if templates are needed.
A seemingly over parrellel outline behind the widepoint is one of the most important design features of this type of board. The straighter the curve the faster you’ll go. Shapers now days tend to use too much curve in these boards for asthetic reasons which is wrong. If the board is over 6 ft. long, then you can begin to put in a little more curve in the outline and a touch of V off the swallows. aloha!
Also, if the “fish” is over 6ft. (like 6’-4" or better) it’s a good thing to increase the nose flip w/o increasing the entry rocker(first 6-9" of the nose).and to add a little tail rocker with that mild “vee”…a nicely boxed rail with a tucked edge, dummied-out in the front third to add a little modern touch(helps the fish to skate more freely w/o catching edges).A full tucked edge all the way around is good for foward projection especially if you’re riding the front half of the board…(by the way,Tom was right on with his post).Herb.
A seemingly over parrellel outline behind the widepoint is one of the most > important design features of this type of board. The straighter the curve > the faster you’ll go. Shapers now days tend to use too much curve in these > boards for asthetic reasons which is wrong. If the board is over 6 ft. > long, then you can begin to put in a little more curve in the outline and > a touch of V off the swallows.>>> aloha! Parallel is good! Using a spin temp from a longboard probably wasn’t the way to go, too much curve. Go with the flow, balls in my court, I got it bro! Thanks for the offer for a template, that was a nice gesture Herb and thanks for the dims from Noodle also. Hey Tom, where was the widepoint on your 7’2"? That board just talks to a heavy guy like me (215 lb), thanks for everyones help.
Templating is a funny thing…a kind of magical time for the moment.It’s > the bending of lines into curves…What made me a better > shaper/outliner is …to forget about the fact that it is a surfboard > you are working on for a moment and concentrate on the curves and > contours…That’s why you have all that fancy lighting and painted > walls for…think thru it , use your mind’s eye as well as your > eyeballs…if you need templates, I will provide some for > you,…but the sign of a true master craftsman/surfboard > builder is to create your own lines! Now that the Zen lesson is over for > the day…what will it be guys,…the ball is in your half of the > court now.Herb…E-mail me if templates are needed. There are a lot of times that I’m not sure of where the wide point will be or should be. I mark off for center, then add a mark 6-8" ahead of center and behind, I then draw a straight line between the 2, then add the template. There are time I think the wide spot is, say center or ahead OC 3", but in reality it is behind or way ahead. Just because there is a spot marked out at 57" up from tail doesn’t mean that is where it is going to lay. You can visually see exactly where it comes into contact with the parallel lines. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
Yes Jim I do the same thing. Sometimes the diffrence in the wide point and the center dimension may be 1/16 of an inch and without making a line you’ll NEVER get a true perspective on where exactly the wide point is. aloha!
Sorry I was not around earlier to answer this. No surf, rainy weather so what better place to hole up but in the shop. Was finishing a 6’8" Fish with Herb’s superchargers. The 7’2" Big Fish for the 225 lb. rider had the wide point at +6" OC. More or less as your Nose and Tail dimensions dictate. Lots of good information in this thread and as Jim points out below don’t get hung up on “forcing” the template into some set points. Put some thought in which of your existing templates to use for the curves and don’t be afraid to abandon your templates for fresh new ones. I spent an hour refreshing my thoughts on this last night and ended up revising templates. Let me know if you want any other specifics about fin placement on the 7’2". Tom Sterne>>> Parallel is good! Using a spin temp from a longboard probably wasn’t the > way to go, too much curve. Go with the flow, balls in my court, I got it > bro! Thanks for the offer for a template, that was a nice gesture Herb and > thanks for the dims from Noodle also. Hey Tom, where was the widepoint on > your 7’2"? That board just talks to a heavy guy like me (215 lb), > thanks for everyones help.
tip to tip on the swallow=10.25 inches
Swaylock’s is the best source for a bank of good info I’ve ever seen! Any advice I have would just be a guess…but I was wondering if would try out drawing out a template of the fish shape on my Surfboards Interactive sight…and give me some feed back? thanks Steven>>> I’d like to try a large oldstyle fish similar to Tom’s 7’2" in the > Funboards archive. Where is the approximate widepoint on a board this size > and what would be the ideal measurement point to point on the swallow. > I’ve been trying different measurements but they just don’t seem to look > right. Thanks for all of the help, you guys are the best! http://www.surfboardsinteractive.com