today i glassed my first board, did the bottom. i used polyester resin.
i didn’t put much catylist in the mix. I think i used around two quarts of resin, and used maybe 2 ml of catylist, although i could be mistakin. i was nervous it was gonna harden too fast and figured i should add a little less. and it was my first time using that much resin so i had no idea how much to use.
i stuck around for a few hours after i glassed it and it was still sort of wet, and word on the street is that it’s still wet as we speak, and its 7:03.
will it harden? or am i gonna have to peel it off and do it again? what should my time frame be? if it’s not hard by tomorrow afternoon then its a done deal? or could it take longer then that?
i’d really rather not have to peel it all off and do it again.
This probably isn’t a fix but it might help a little.
I under catalyzed some sanding resing in cool weather. I don’t think I was as undercat’d as you are though. I used a heating pad set at about 115F to speed the reaction. It was on a repair so the pad was big enough to cover it.
Along these same lines, once you’ve applied and set the coat plusone is suggesting, you may want to try putting in under a standard electric blanket for a while. Be sure to cover it with a couple layers of wax paper or something else to keep the blanket from getting wrecked.
Than again, the second hotter coat may be all that’s needed.
Just a thought.
Here’s the catalyst chart I made as a quick reference. Hopefully it will help in the future.
Howzit poser, 2ml’s for 2 quarts, might kick in a week or so, just kidding, maybe. Plus one’s advise is right on and will kick off the lam but I would let it cure for a while after it done just to be safe. Aloha,Kokua
I am an epoxy user, so personally have no clue about poly resin and catalyst; but a cabinet maker friend of mine used to work for a local boat company doing R&D and mold/jig making. He told me a story once about how they had just done a prototype hull and the resin wasn’t kicking, they all thought they had screwed the pooch, but an old timer at the factory just put some catalyst in a cup and painted a bit onto the surface of the hull and she cured right up.
Now before you go and do that, maybe kokua or +1 will chime in and say whether this could be a bad thing for the properties of the resin or not.
Johan1, slathering catalyst on an uncatalyzed batch, without thoroughly mixing it in, isn’t going to do anyone any good, and the laminate won’t cure through its depth, whatever that is. You may get some curing at the surface, but that’s it, without mixing.
The job will eventually harden, as long as there is some catalyst in there. Leaving it in direct sunlight will help, as will heating in indoors.
Brushing on catalyst will leave a surface saturated with catalyst, something to consider (how?) when doing the next coat, whatever that may be.
Your referenced oldtimer who painted on catalyst, got lucky, I believe, that the underlying resin went off at about that time, or as a second choice, enough of the surface hardened to make you think it had cured through.
sorry brandon. its been too cold here to do epoxy, and i dont have a heater, and shes coming out here soon and i need to get that sheet done!
but damn those fumes. almost died, with a mask on. i dont think ill ever use poly again, after i glass the deck of this bitch.
i honestly thought i was gonna die. i think its cuz my lifestyle is so fume free, between all my veggies and fresh air, i just couldn’t handle those fumes.
so i just got back from the place of insident, a solid 24 hours later. its definetly dried alittle bit. now when you touch it its sort of like touching the stickky side of duck tape, but not as bad. but its tacky. i cut the laps and it was so easy considering the circumstances.
the color came out so good, i really edont want to peel it off and do it again.
so honolulu, do you agree that i should throw another coat over it of lam mixed properly and call it a day? or should i just let her be.
it will remain tacky forever unless you put styrene wax in it … you need to make another batch with styrene wax in it or use gloss or sanding resin which already contains wax, this keeps air from reaching the resin and forces it to harden tack free.
Trying to sand the current coat without doing the above will result in a gooey mess and much junk sandpaper. I’ve gotten away with it wet sanding with 220 and soap but you really need to just put a waxed coat on it (with enough hardener) and let it do it’s thing.
thats true. but im pretty sure it fits right. its tight, and when i shaped the board and got dust in every single crevis in my whole bod i didn’t get any in my mouth or lungs. and when i cover the holes where the filters are with my hands i can’t inhale anything. so it seems to pass all the tests.
it will remain tacky forever unless you put styrene wax in it … you need to make another batch with styrene wax in it or use gloss or sanding resin which already contains wax, this keeps air from reaching the resin and forces it to harden tack free.
Trying to sand the current coat without doing the above will result in a gooey mess and much junk sandpaper. I’ve gotten away with it wet sanding with 220 and soap but you really need to just put a waxed coat on it (with enough hardener) and let it do it’s thing.