Grasshopper,
Does the carbon end over or under the bamboo? Also did you hand lam the Innegra? Do they have a distributor or did you get it directly from them?
Dave D
Hi Wouter
You'd need two rocker beds - cut from deck and bottom.
Vac deck first on bottom rocker bed (without vee shaped in the bottom)
Mow/hotwire in the vee.
Vac the bottom skin using the deck bed - or if the board is stabil enough with rails and deck, without a rocker bed.
More work I guess
Dave - the carbon cutline is under the bamboo. The innegrity cloth was hand laminated and it only goes to the edge of the carbon cutline on the bottom because it does not wet out clear and it also fuzzes when you sand it so a little difficult to work with. Looks like some pretty amazing stuff though from the videos on their site. I got the cloth straight from the manufacturer - they are ramping up production and seem to be trying to branch out into as many markets as possible.
i'm liking that one grasshopper
i really like the look of the carbon rails next to the bamboo deck
thanks for the info on the innegrity
bought my hickory from the veneer store its in california
http://www.theveneerstore.com/default.aspx
My latest “timber flex” variant- 7’-5" x 20-5/8" x 2-3/4" 2lb EPS with 1/8" basswood center stringer, 1/2" balsa rails, hickory/4oz bottom, 4oz/hickory/4oz deck.
Stiff? After snapping my favorite balsa compsand this past swell I’ll take a little stiffness. The board is a reiteration of my Mush Gun which was 8-0 x 22 x 3. The idea was to compete with the longboards at PV Cove. The 8-0 hit its mark. I could compete with everyone (but some Hawaiian guy on a 10’ Aipa) and still turn like I wanted to. So now I’m thinking chisel it down a bit and see if I can get back even more maneuverability. We’ll see…
WOOD JOINT #1!
2+1 set up
Thruster set up
Toed in wood grain
Homemade bamboo fins. I was going to use some left over FCS plugs I had but changed my mind at the last minute. I wanted the 2+1 option and so went single fin box+probox. That’s why the fins have FCS tabs. I reinforced the tab with carbon rod.
Nice Grasshopper
That board is sick. I am thinking about carbon rails on my next board. Is 5.7oz 3” carbon tape good for rails?
Nice work llilibel03,
I am digging the Hickory with sap wood down the middle. Fins are sweet too.
East Coast Distributor infor for Innegrity: ACT ( Advanced Composite Technologies) at 864-918-1333.
This stuff is heavy duty and seems to be suited really well for SUP's and lighter density foam blanks and kiteboards
I was actually thinking of doing no carbon on the next one - just stringerless with the bamboo deck. This one is very stiff even with no stringers.
I have used braided carbon and unidirectional carbon for rails. 3" will work - that is what i used on this one but 4" is better - with the 3" I could not wrap the carbon as far as I wanted
The Hickory veneer looks sweet!
I'm just curious. How much did the veneer cost you? I just wanted to know what is a fair price.
On my previous bagging disaster, pictured earlier in this post (p. 11), I paid $100 for four really beautiful 7' by 12" sheets of curly maple. I got it from a place in downtown San Diego called Hesser Handcrafted. They have a huge inventory of raw figured veneers that they cut themselves. It is an impressive operation. They have a big machine that chopped the sheets, and another that they used to roll the sheets through, which joined and glue them together. I walked away with two 24" wide sheets that were perfectly book matched. In my mind it was a fair price for good wood, and great customer service. I'm just curious to see if others are getting their veneers for about the same price or much cheaper.
The hickory cost $50 at certainlywood.com.
Onuela posted up a price for hickory that was much cheaper but didn’t mention the source. You might ask him.
Hey Swied, If you search “Giant Squid” you will see my adventures with figured veneer. Mine adhered well but was still wavy and I did two sand coats on the veneer, before laminating. And then did two hotcoats to get everything smooth. A lot of work. That veneer was $80 for the board, but I had to redo one side and went and bought enough to eventually make another board.
ok, started mine too…
so its going to be the near same dims as my coil fish, with different bottom [just a bit of vee from 1.5ft OT to tail.
double skinned it tonight, weight is 1650 grams
epoxy spackle on rails tomorrow, fill up the joint to the bamboo skins
then glass some nice print one and finish glass, oh, and probox Quad install [1st]
hope to get near to 2400 grams finished weight with another 3 oz of glass both sides…no gloss
no cam yet, but will borrow one soon.
bamboo at 0.6mm is pretty F… stiff! [and heavy]
wouter
I finally got everything ordered and should be starting my summer stick soon.
I have a new direction on this one so I thought I would run the build by yall for some input:
Starting from the deck down:
4oz
1/42 veneer
2oz
5.7oz 4” carbon tape rails on 1.5 eps no stringer
carbon tow triangle in tail (under eps or over eps?)
full board printed graphic
4oz
Using an eps rocker table
5’8” 2.25 thick 20.5 wide, I am 175lbs.
My first time with carbon so any input is appreciated.
Thanks and take it easy
Jeff, absolutely beautiful. The book matched veneer is stunning.
How well do the balsa rails hold up for you? I’m going foam from here on out. Just easier and I can’t tell that it is any weaker.
You also seemed to have figured out the “how to make fins good” part too. I hate you for that. ha
How much is that innegrity glass? Looked at the web site but couldn’t see a product line. Does it come in various weights? thx
Slashster,
Lose the carbon fiber rails... no need and too stiff. The timberflex build is supposed to be easy? Don't over build it. Just EPS, wood, glass. Everytime I build one I use less and less material.
Almost to a point where it's 1.5 eps, wood, then a 4 oz cover, same for top, same for bottom. ....no stringers, no carbonfiber, no rocker table.
if you think you need black rails...paint them.
Couple of things I learnt from my most recent build:
-
The plug and play vac fittings seem a great idea. I ended up having to seal them with mastic because they sucked so much air.
-
Test bag is a waste of time. Test bag holding 20" vac. Then tear it open and drop in the glassed product and start all over again finding leaks to hold 7".
-
Found mastic tape at my local fibreglass supplier. Will never use anything else again to seal the bag (and everything else).
-
The tip here about putting a tube on the compressor outlet was great. I ran my fridge compressor for 24 hours (epoxy wouldn’t go off) and the extra tube saved my compresor oil from blowing all over the place.
5. The edge roller works great to get the veneer flush.
6. When the resin is slow to go off it can migrate through/around? to the top of the veneer. I use flyscreen to help airflow along the length of the bag. I now have a bit of flyscreen resined to the veneer. It will scrape/sand off, but it’s added effort.
- Double sided tabe holding the rails on fine - no slips or twists (I used to glass the (foam) rails on but the boards were too stiff)
On to glassing…( and a lot of lessons because I’m pretty unpractised at laminating)
Edit: Thanks to all the guys, tips and advice on Sways that made it possible
[quote="$1"]
So IMHO the most recent build is a shaped EPS 1.5 blank with a 1/16th stringer. Spray glue 2 oz. on the back of the deck veneer draw up and cut out. Nothing backing the bottom veneer ,,, draw up and cut out. Wet up back of the venners with resin. Place the deck venner and tape on. Flip the board and place and tape the bottom veneer. Bag. Pull Vac, and then push the deck venner edges into the deck foam with a hard roller. Wait 3 hours or so and pull the blank out .... should be about ready to glass. Do a 4 or 6 oz bottom and a 6 deck. Hot coat and finish. Pretty easy stuff I think.
Nice to see the evolution within these pages.
[/quote]
You're making it sound so easy greg, not that much more work than a poly. Just need a bag, and a pump?, oh and epoxy of course.
Could that work for a very light weight poly blank??. Much easier to get hold of here.
Anyone know roughly the density ( lb ) of surfblanks green, or yellow foam??
Sorry if im low teching on this highly technical thread guys. This stuff is fascinating!
Thanks for the info Resinhead,
The last thing I want is a stiff board. I don’t have any experience with carbon but was thinking a 1.5 core with 4/wood/2 deck, no stringer, and just a 4oz bottom would benefit from carbon rails giving additional return when loaded up through turns and add strength to the rails.
If 5.7 oz carbon rails stiffens it too much would uni-directional or lighter oz carbon tape provide improved flex return and rail strength without stiffening it too much?
Would the top 4zo and bottom 4oz over the 1.5 lb rails be enough with no rail tape or HD rails?
Since I only get the chance to build a few boards a year I am not concerned with KISS, I just want to improve on my 1st WMD T-Flex and get the most high-performance board I can.
Thanks for any input, take it easy
yeah beerfan huie and i discussed using midgets yellow foam for this type of thinf ages ago. it probably would be good for it but the stringer may make it too stiff. u wouldnt need anything on the bottom
I've only used carbon fiber on a few things....never on rails. It's stiff, I think carbon fiber with wood would make a very durable board, but I think it would be too much. 4 x 4 glass on the rails is plenty, just don't drop it.
If you are looking to go complex..go for it, but you don't need too.