I’ve never vented any of the hollow (chambered) boards I’ve done. I’m not aware of Mike Diffenderfer ever venting any of his boards. And I don’t believe that Jim Phillips has ever vented any of his chambered boards either. I’ve recently been told of a vent made with a micro mesh so fine that it will allow molecules of air, but not molecules of water, to freely pass through. Sounds pretty “high tech”.
I’m well aware of Gortex, however what was described to me was more like a membrane, as opposed to a fabric. I’ll be seeing the gentleman tomorrow and will inquire in more depth. I’ll post back to you what I find out.
Tell me do these chambered boards need to be vented in any way?
Balsa, keep this thread going until it’s finished, I know lots of people will be interested in this process.
I guess it very much depends on where you live. Over here in France we have a very wide range of temperature along the year.
For instance, in January, water temp will be around 53° while air temp might be 25° at sunrise then 55° at noon.
But then in spring, water is still around 57° and some days air temp may go over 85°. With such a huge temp difference the air inside the board will change its size abruptly and you may have some delam problems.
Then in summer, your board comes out of water at 70° and travels back on your roof hit by the sun at way over 100° … And you hear the vent that keeps on whisling…
But again, I think the temperature changes are much greater over here than in California.
That’s the correct term, though I just say ‘run them through the jointer’ - for those unfamiliar with what that is -
A Delta-Rockwell 4" jointer planer - think of it as a power plane upside down with a 90° fence on it. Instead of moving it across what you’re cutting, you feed the material through it.
( courtesy of the vacationing Keith Melville - mine is an open-stand version of the same tool. )
Mine is bigger than yours, Doc… (Kidding):
It also doubles as thickness planer. (Is that right?)
And allows for some wooden achievements other than surfboards, such as walnut/mahogany bar and oak/mahogany kitchen work-top…
…or oak/walnut stairway with half-surfboard outline stairs:
Unfortunately, no shaper yet, Doc. (The machine, not the guy with dust all over…) Probably next purchase, once I have built a larger workshop…
As for the pegs, I drive small nails (head cut) into the wood with the pin side up barely over wood surface. Then I put the next piece of wood on top (aligning it with the first, of course). The pins of the nails leave a mark right where you should drill the hole. Is that what you call locating pins? I assume it is.
Now the chisel and the chips: in fact, this set-up is the best because it allows an easy way out for the chips, except for the very first left drill (moving from left to right).
Could you explain what a dowelling jig exactly is? Thanks a lot, not all technical terms can be found in my (very small) dictionnary…
Please forgive me if I don’t answer posts in the next few days since I’ve got to go to Paris tomorrow until sunday.
Just met this guy in northern spain, a crazy green surffreak. he imports balsa boards and laminates them with a 98% linseed oil resin and bamboo cloth. Saw him riding his 30ties bike through the town of somo, near santander with his eco- balsa surfboard under his arm- what a freak!
his board looks very nice and even if they seemed to be more heavy than a foam board it surfed awesome.
If you`re travelling in northern spain you should pass by his workshop or check out the homepage www.kuntiqi.com
Do you guys have any idea who builds the most sustainable surfboards available in europe?
The most sustainable? That probably depends on who you speak to and what factors they take into account… The source foam or wood, the resin type and manufacturer, the laminating fabric, the longevity…
I’ve found that it’s hard to truely sort out all of those variables. For example, I build balsas and EPS/Epoxy boards (along with my pu’s). The balsa is sustainable in Ecuador, but the maritime/air transport uses fossil fuels that aren’t too wonderful. EPS is recyclable in theory, but few manufacturers effectively recycle the scraps, and what’s inside the board… well it’s not too likely that they’ll touch it. I’ve played with hemp and linen, but I haven’t found a tissu that’s as effective as a good fiberglass at the moment.
Your best bet is to find a shaper whose discourse you agree with, to make a board that’s as long lasting as practically possible with the highest level of acceptable perfornce for your style and the waves you surf.
For most (non ‘modern’ shortboard) surfers here in Gironde, I’ve found that a hollow balsa with a good epoxy lamination (S cloth or bamboo) is about the best combination of weight, performance, and longevity. With a bit of care and, the board will last a lifetime of use and thus the impact is pretty slight.
Another shaper might give you a different view, but that’s my two cents worth.