The nose was difficult needing a lot of wires,and clamps to get it all pulled together nice and tight. The nose was allighned and wires tightened before the rest of the hull. Started wireing from the nose and worked my way towards the back adding wires anyplace that needed to be allighned.
Time to shove some more worthless crap in front of your eyeballs . Turned the hull over so I could finish stitching with the wires. Also leveled the hull from side to side to make sure it wasn't twisted.
The hull is tacked useing thickened epoxy being sure not to glue in the wires. when the epoxy is dry the wire ties can be removed and the fillets can be done and then the tape pulled. When the fillets are dry you have a nice solid hull.
With the hull glued up I needed to figure out where to frame up for the fin, skeg,keel boxes. So I flipped the hull upside down and started playing with skeg and fin shapes and placement. I found I was some what limited to placement because the hull kicks up from the last frame to the stern. For now just need to know the box placement and laiter I can play around with skeg shapes.
My next installment of pictures was delayed cause i had to go out to Pakalas (104 cars at 09;15). Was my wifes birthday so we went out to Barking sands and enjoyed watching the surfers at Majors and family Housing, shopping at the NEX and eating shrimp at the shrimp station
So here is the double skeg box assembly>I drew it out full size on plywood. The white foam was used to keep everything in allighnment while glueing.
Here are the bottom stringers.The 2x4 block was used measure the distance of the stringers from the outside bulkhead of the board. After they were marked they were glued and wired in place untill dry. Wedgeing or weighting the stringers in place might destort the bottom panels.
My deck stringers (floor joists-ha ha !) were not done acording to instructions. I cut them to exact deck curve and then glassed 4 oz cloth on either side.The deck were my fat ass is going to stand needs to be super strong.
When I did my finger joints for the hull panels I wanted to know just how strong they were so I made up 6 test strips with finger joints and glassed them with four oz glass cloth.Then I bent the strips untill they failed. As you can see the are very strong. None of the joints failed as you can see by the broken strip on the right.
Curious what the final product is suspected to look like? Got any vintage pictures of a similar finished board. Looks more like something I'd put an outboard on the back of than a vintage surfboard at this stage. Good work.
I thought I recognized this one. Its the Chesapeke Light Craft Kit/Plans. I've been wanting to build one of their Kayaks for years but just don't have the space to do it.
Mako, the one I'm keen to reproduce is the "Proa" through Chesapeake Light Craft. That design is one of the best one man sailors I've seen. It is so fast and user friendly. Great for short tours. Gotta keep that one in my back pocket for awhile.....some day.